Tag: Maui

The best campsite in the world is in Kipahulu, Maui

May. 10 Camping, Haleakala Crater, National Parks, Other adventures 1 comment

Few people come to the Hawaiian Islands to camp or hike, but we do both. Beyond the excellent outdoor opportunities, we were married at Secret Cove in Maui and come back each year to get married again by our friend, Pastor Dennis De Rego. What started as a romantic ‘mission’ has become one of friendship and adventure as we’ve found Maui to be an excellent island for both.

After our recent hike from Haleakala Crater to Paliku Campsite in April 2012, we were back to complete the peak-to-ocean journey by completing the lower section from Paliku Campsite to Kaupo Trailhead near the beaches of Southwest Maui. We did our research and found the Kipahulu Campground in the Haleakala National Park, just 12 km (8 mi) from the Kaupo Trailhead and adjacent to the very popular Ohe’o Gulch and its ‘Seven Sacred Pools (locals will tell you they’re not at all sacred), 16 km (10 mi) beyond Hana.

When we first arrived we were almost ready to set up our campsite in the open field that makes up most of the campground. Each site has a picnic table and BBQ grill, and there is a centrally located pit toilet (but no water). We would have been perfectly happy. By chance, we happened to walk the perimeter and discovered sites that were set apart from each other and the rest of the campground and right along the cliffs over the ocean. We were fortunate to find the best campsite we’ve ever had.

The site doesn’t have easy access to the sea, but that’s not the point along this rugged coast. Watching the waves crash on the cliffs is one of the most peaceful activities we know. The steady breeze that blows past this part of Maui brings occasional showers (especially after sunset) but the breezes are steady and cool. Even in the warmest part of the day, the temperature was ideal. As we went to bed, the waves were a soothing way to fall asleep and to wake up in the morning.


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Kaupo, Maui to Paliku Campsite in May 2012

May. 09 Camping, Haleakala Crater, Hawaii, Hiking adventures, Maui, National Parks, Other adventures 3 comments

Barely a month after hiking the Haleakala Crater to Paliku Campsite, we were back in Maui to hike the remainder of the trail that goes from Paliku Campsite down to the Kaupo Ranch Trailhead. The remaining distance was less than 12 km (7 mi) but a whopping 1800 m (5800 ft) elevation change over that relatively short distance. Instead of going down, as most do, we were going to hike up and down in a single day, meaning 24 km (14 mi) and 3600 m (11,600 ft) of total elevation change.

Kipahulu to Kaupo

We left the world’s greatest campsite at Kipahulu shortly after breakfast and continued clockwise around the island. The village of Kaupo is 13 km (8 mi) from the Kipahulu Area of Haleakala National Park but getting there involves one of the most torturous roads, at times both dirt and paved, in the Hawaiian Islands. There are sharp turns that require horns, and even with warning, meeting an oncoming car in the wrong moment would be disaster. It is a beautiful but deserted drive through the least-populated part of Maui.

Kaupo Trailhead

At the end of this isolated section and about 100 m before the Kaupo Store (and immediately to the right of the Haleakala National Park sign that you’ll need to see in your mirror, as it faces the other way), is the road that takes you to the trailhead itself. If you thought the road to get this far was rough, wait until you see the final stretch of narrow, broken pavement with tall grass growing in the center that leads to the trailhead.

Kaupo Ranch

The trail begins by crossing the Kaupo Ranch, owned by the Baldwin Family since the early days of Hawaiian settlement by Westerners. The trail wanders between wooded paths and ranch roads and at time is steep enough to make traction on the loose lava rocks a challenge. The day was getting warm by late morning and we were happy to make it to the woods at the edge of the Ranch that mark the start of the Haleakala National Park.

Entering Haleakala

While the cool shade was a relief, walking through the high grass was treacherous as it disguised the large lava rocks and holes beneath. We stepped carefully to avoid injuries but didn’t want to slow our very fast pace. It is a dangerous but gorgeous landscape that is beautifully green and lush, a reminder of the constant rains that come as the Trade Winds blow clouds into the peaks above.

Once through the grasslands, the trail climbs a series of perpendicular ridges, each a moment of hope that became just the top of another rise. The trail was good and even appeared to be at times a massive, ancient undertaking like some of the trails we’ve seen in Nepal and Europe.

We were surprised to see little water along the way and few waterfalls along the high ridges to our right as we climbed. This made reaching the water supply at Paliku an important objective as we finished most of our water in the heat of the way up.

Paliku Campsite

Arriving at Paliku Campsite was very similar to our previous hike, with light rain gradually increasing and the temperature dropping as we arrived at what must be the coldest, wettest place in Maui. We made tea near the cabin and finished just as the rain really started to fall. We were quite cold and hurried to make our way back down below that not-so-tropical zone.

Getting back down was easier but didn’t go significantly faster that our ascent, as so many sections had loose footing or grass-hidden obstacles. We were very sore when we finally reached the car, but realized we had just completed a significant challenge, perhaps one of the toughest we’ve done. We’ll be back to Maui, but first we need to tackle the Big Island and its even higher heights.

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Getting married (again) in Maui

Mar. 24 Beaches 4 comments

It would be against our style to do things the way others do, so while many people get married in Maui (Maui’d, as the Maui wedding people say), we get married annually in Maui.

We showed up at the Kihei Boat Ramp just before 5pm and had a few minutes to enjoy the breeze and gorgeous evening before meeting Dennis DeRego, the minister who we found by chance the first time but have returned to by choice .

Our last time in Maui, Dennis offered to take us out in his boat the next time we tie the knot, and this was our chance to take him up on it. While the winds were strong, the skies were amazingly clear and the waves not so bad.  We decided to get remarried on the boat as a nice touch. It was an excellent choice, as it turned out. The pleasure of knowing Dennis and being able to do something most visitors never do makes us feel less like tourists and more connected to the island.

Molokini

Dennis expertly launched the boat and we were on the water within fifteen minutes of his arrival, catching up on life since we last spoke. In a seemingly short time, we were motoring around the offshore island of Molokini, a favorite local dive spot. We circled the island and then headed toward Black Sand Beach where we could have calmer waters for the ceremony.

Even though we offered to keep it simple to save Dennis the trouble of getting dressed, he insisted that we have the full experience, even on the boat. He put on his wedding shirt and robe, and even topped things off with his leafy headdress and brought out the famous Dennis DeRego conch.

Black Sand Beach

As the boat rocked from side to side, we had our ceremony. Of course, he chanted in Hawaiian before blowing the conch several times. His Hawaiian wedding chant is an excellent local part of being married by Dennis. He gave us each a moment to share our feelings about being married, but that part will need to stay between the three of us, as we love our private wedding ceremonies. We completed our mission to marry again and had an excellent cruise back to Kehei Harbor as it grew darker .

We can’t say enough about what being married each year means for us. We don’t need it as a reminder or even a refresh, but it gives us the same thrill each time as we know each other better. We agreed after that each year it has new meaning because of new experiences, challenges, and more life behind us.

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Hiking Maui in March 2012

Mar. 22 Camping, Hawaii, Hiking adventures, Maui, Other adventures no comments

You can have no doubt by now that we love the Hawaiian Islands. While they are just one of fifty states, they are in every other way almost nothing like the Mainland. The palm trees, warm breezes and gorgeous tropical flowers can be found elsewhere, but in no other American state can you find the combination of backcountry hiking, deep blue waters, ocean adventures and Polynesian laid-back culture.

We were married in Maui a few years back and decided to return as often as we could, annually if possible, to get married in paradise.

Day 1 – Arrive and stay at the Sheraton Maui in Ka’anapali. This hotel sits on a point of land known as Black Rock and has some of the best protected snorkeling and beaches on the same stretch of Maui’s West Coast. Being in a hotel the first night lets us rest up from the flight and be ready to hike.

Day 2 – Stay at beautiful Camp Olowalu near Lahaina and see a Switchfoot concert in Kahului on the East Coast of the island. Camp Olowalu has both cabins and tent sites and we’ll try each as we enjoy sleeping at the edge of the surf.

Day 3 – Get married (again) by Dennis DeRego in a small, sunset ceremony on the Molokini Atoll just offshore from where we were originally married at Makena (AKA ‘Secret’) Cove. We’ll take Dennis’ boat out to the island.

Day 4 and 5  – Hike from the top of the Haleakala Crater at 2435 m (7,990 ft) down to the remote campsite of Paliku at 1,944 m (6380 ft). The campsite is at the base of cliffs that form the boundary of the rainforest that dominates the Southeast Coast of Maui. Few people associate backpacking and Hawaii, and we’re about to change that.

There’s no limit to what you can do in a tropical paradise like Maui and the other Hawaiian Islands. That’s why we keep coming back here and know we’re only getting started. Watch our blog over the next week as we tell the story of another amazing adventure.

Aloha.

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Maui Switchfoot concert in March 2012

Dec. 26 Concerts, Other adventures 1 comment

Switchfoot puts on an amazing show, and Maui was no different. Not only is the music excellent, but the crowd knows the words to nearly every song and stands for the entire show.

Not our first Switchfoot show, but it was the best venue and our seats (third row center) were fantastic. It was great to see a very mixed crowd of dark and white, old hippies and young college students, all with the same enthusiasm.

We particularly enjoyed this acoustic start to “Dare You To Move”.

One of Switchfoot’s greatest songs is “Only Hope” and here is another acoustic start to the song.

Jon Foreman loves moving through the crowd during the show, something the fans love just as much.

Another video of Jon Foreman moving through the crowd, this time singing “Where I Belong”.

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Haleakala Crater, Maui and the Sliding Sands Trail in March 2010

Mar. 19 Hawaii, Hiking adventures, Maui 1 comment

Neil Armstrong had one of the most unique experiences anyone could hope to have. Everyone knows he walked on the moon, but few people realize they can do something similar much closer to home, albeit with the normal expectations for gravity and oxygen. The Hawaiian island of Maui is home to one of the most interesting landscapes found anywhere. The Sliding Sands Trail starts at 3225 m (10,000 ft) and immediately descends into the enormous Haleakala Crater with its layers of lava rock, each with its own particular color and native Hawaiian plant species that are unique on our planet. We were able to hike this trail in March 0f 2010 and it was remarkable.

Getting rehitched

Every great trip should start with an opportunity to renew marriage vows, even if it had only been one (wonderful, fantastic) year since we took the plunge. We were married at ‘Secret Cove’ near Makena, Maui in May 2009 and didn’t have the time on that trip to have one of our famous hiking adventures. Soon after exchanging vows once again, we were dressed and ready to have another new experience.

Getting there

The drive up to Haleakala Crater National Park is an interesting adventure in itself. The road winds up the flank of the enormous, extinct volcano that defines Maui and is big business for mountain bike outfitters who take people up in large vans and then pick them up at the bottom of the 36.8 km (23 miles) ride. The switchbacking highway defines the ride and there are plenty of opportunities to get stuck behind a bus or big, white van. Take your time and enjoy the views and you’ll enjoy it more and everyone can arrive at the top safely.

Trailhead


Unlike most trails, the Sliding Sands trail starts with a significant downhill section that drops into the dormant crater. Going downhill is usually the challenge of finishing a hike and it is an unusual pleasure to get that out of the way early, even knowing the hike out will be harder. Soon after completing the down climb, there is a fork in the main trail that allows for exploration of two cinder cones just to the left of the main trail. Take the time, as the colors and the very idea that these were once active lava vents makes them very interesting to see up close.

Flora and fauna

Once back on the main trail, the hike becomes a steady walk through the silversword (āhinahina)  plants that line both sides of the trail. This plant is unique in the world and only adds to the rare quality of this location. There are also several species of birds that are unafraid of humans, like the nene (a hawaiian cousin of the goose). Check here for great photos of the Hana end of Maui and the Crater.

Mist rolls in

Once we reached the point where we decided to turn back, we stopped and sat on a large rock to rest and eat our packed lunch. No longer moving, it was much easier to notice the clouds coming into the crater. There is almost no sound once you’re away from the crowds near the start of the trail other than the wind and the birds. It is very easy to lose track of time as you watch wispy clouds drift in and break up in unending cycles.

Whale watching

With one more day to enjoy, we decided to take one of the many offered whale watching boats that leave from Lahaina, on the west side of Maui. We didn’t really expect to see much and were attracted as much by the price and ability to get out on the water as anything else, but had an amazing time as we came very close to several enormous humpback whales that were swimming lazily offshore. If the season is right and you have a chance to do this, find a reputable boat and take the few hours to see these amazing creatures.

Hike details

This is a lunar landscape hike in the middle of one of the most beautiful places on Earth, which makes this something you can’t miss if you are on Maui. Not only is the landscape so different from sea level, but the temperatures are also significantly cooler and dryer, making the conditions for exercise even better than at lower levels. Plan ahead for ways to carry water, as the trailhead has restrooms but your best bet would be to bring water from below along with a convenient way to transport it (like a backpack). Good shoes will matter as well, as the ground is mostly level but rocky in places.

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