Tag: Hawaii

The best campsite in the world is in Kipahulu, Maui

May. 10 Camping, Haleakala Crater, National Parks, Other adventures 1 comment

Few people come to the Hawaiian Islands to camp or hike, but we do both. Beyond the excellent outdoor opportunities, we were married at Secret Cove in Maui and come back each year to get married again by our friend, Pastor Dennis De Rego. What started as a romantic ‘mission’ has become one of friendship and adventure as we’ve found Maui to be an excellent island for both.

After our recent hike from Haleakala Crater to Paliku Campsite in April 2012, we were back to complete the peak-to-ocean journey by completing the lower section from Paliku Campsite to Kaupo Trailhead near the beaches of Southwest Maui. We did our research and found the Kipahulu Campground in the Haleakala National Park, just 12 km (8 mi) from the Kaupo Trailhead and adjacent to the very popular Ohe’o Gulch and its ‘Seven Sacred Pools (locals will tell you they’re not at all sacred), 16 km (10 mi) beyond Hana.

When we first arrived we were almost ready to set up our campsite in the open field that makes up most of the campground. Each site has a picnic table and BBQ grill, and there is a centrally located pit toilet (but no water). We would have been perfectly happy. By chance, we happened to walk the perimeter and discovered sites that were set apart from each other and the rest of the campground and right along the cliffs over the ocean. We were fortunate to find the best campsite we’ve ever had.

The site doesn’t have easy access to the sea, but that’s not the point along this rugged coast. Watching the waves crash on the cliffs is one of the most peaceful activities we know. The steady breeze that blows past this part of Maui brings occasional showers (especially after sunset) but the breezes are steady and cool. Even in the warmest part of the day, the temperature was ideal. As we went to bed, the waves were a soothing way to fall asleep and to wake up in the morning.


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Kaupo, Maui to Paliku Campsite in May 2012

May. 09 Camping, Haleakala Crater, Hawaii, Hiking adventures, Maui, National Parks, Other adventures 3 comments

Barely a month after hiking the Haleakala Crater to Paliku Campsite, we were back in Maui to hike the remainder of the trail that goes from Paliku Campsite down to the Kaupo Ranch Trailhead. The remaining distance was less than 12 km (7 mi) but a whopping 1800 m (5800 ft) elevation change over that relatively short distance. Instead of going down, as most do, we were going to hike up and down in a single day, meaning 24 km (14 mi) and 3600 m (11,600 ft) of total elevation change.

Kipahulu to Kaupo

We left the world’s greatest campsite at Kipahulu shortly after breakfast and continued clockwise around the island. The village of Kaupo is 13 km (8 mi) from the Kipahulu Area of Haleakala National Park but getting there involves one of the most torturous roads, at times both dirt and paved, in the Hawaiian Islands. There are sharp turns that require horns, and even with warning, meeting an oncoming car in the wrong moment would be disaster. It is a beautiful but deserted drive through the least-populated part of Maui.

Kaupo Trailhead

At the end of this isolated section and about 100 m before the Kaupo Store (and immediately to the right of the Haleakala National Park sign that you’ll need to see in your mirror, as it faces the other way), is the road that takes you to the trailhead itself. If you thought the road to get this far was rough, wait until you see the final stretch of narrow, broken pavement with tall grass growing in the center that leads to the trailhead.

Kaupo Ranch

The trail begins by crossing the Kaupo Ranch, owned by the Baldwin Family since the early days of Hawaiian settlement by Westerners. The trail wanders between wooded paths and ranch roads and at time is steep enough to make traction on the loose lava rocks a challenge. The day was getting warm by late morning and we were happy to make it to the woods at the edge of the Ranch that mark the start of the Haleakala National Park.

Entering Haleakala

While the cool shade was a relief, walking through the high grass was treacherous as it disguised the large lava rocks and holes beneath. We stepped carefully to avoid injuries but didn’t want to slow our very fast pace. It is a dangerous but gorgeous landscape that is beautifully green and lush, a reminder of the constant rains that come as the Trade Winds blow clouds into the peaks above.

Once through the grasslands, the trail climbs a series of perpendicular ridges, each a moment of hope that became just the top of another rise. The trail was good and even appeared to be at times a massive, ancient undertaking like some of the trails we’ve seen in Nepal and Europe.

We were surprised to see little water along the way and few waterfalls along the high ridges to our right as we climbed. This made reaching the water supply at Paliku an important objective as we finished most of our water in the heat of the way up.

Paliku Campsite

Arriving at Paliku Campsite was very similar to our previous hike, with light rain gradually increasing and the temperature dropping as we arrived at what must be the coldest, wettest place in Maui. We made tea near the cabin and finished just as the rain really started to fall. We were quite cold and hurried to make our way back down below that not-so-tropical zone.

Getting back down was easier but didn’t go significantly faster that our ascent, as so many sections had loose footing or grass-hidden obstacles. We were very sore when we finally reached the car, but realized we had just completed a significant challenge, perhaps one of the toughest we’ve done. We’ll be back to Maui, but first we need to tackle the Big Island and its even higher heights.

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Hiking the Halemauu Trail to the Paliku Campsite at Haleakala National Park

Mar. 25 Haleakala Crater, Haleakala Crater, Hawaii, Hiking adventures, Maui, Peaks 4 comments

The Halemauu Trail to the Paliku Wilderness Campsite is not a two-day hike for the casual hiker. Fortunately, we’re no casual hikers and were well-prepared for the altitude, wet, cold and 32.8 km (20.4 miles) round trip. We paid our $10 to enter the park for three days, and made our way to the Haleakala National Park Visitors Center to get our free permits and to watch the mandatory video, “Leave No Trace.”  We were skeptical about having to learn again about the philosophy we already practice, but it turned out to be a very good video that every national park should have.

Halemauu Trail

The Halemau’u Trail starts at 2435 m (7,990 ft) on the main road through the park. By the time we grabbed our gear and left our car at the parking lot, we were enveloped in a mist that brought the kind of rain that only happens as clouds try to push over 3,055 m (10,023 ft) Haleakala shield volcano. It is so large that it takes up 75% of the land area of Maui and dictates the weather for most of the island.

The trail leaves the parking lot as a fairly straight path that passes through scrub before beginning a significant descent of the West Crater Wall to the Ko’olau Gap at the floor of the Haleakala Crater. The trail in places is cut from sheer lava rock cliffs and represents an enormous amount of effort on the part of the National Park Service. Each turn that faced toward the sea brought rainy mist, and each turn away brought relief from the wet.

The descent section lasted nearly three miles and left us ready to hike on more level ground. We’ve always found going down to be tougher on our bodies and more risky than climbing even steep trails. Add wet rocks and loose gravel and you have a recipe for injury.

Lunch

Once off the cliff trail, we found an excellent place to have lunch just inside a gate that was constructed to keep feral goats out of the park and away from the silversword, a plant unique to Haleakala National Park. We made ramen noodles and brewed up tea as we rested our legs and enjoyed taking off our packs for a bit.

Soon after eating, we started once again down the trail and soon entered an area of lava flows that had remarkable formations that made the landscape appear apocalyptic. There were patches of pahoehoe (smooth, sometimes ropey-looking lava) and a’a, the jagged lava that is nearly impossible to walk across, leading to jokes that a’a is the sound you make when you try. At one point, we found lava chutes that still bore the evidence of lava flowing from underground even centuries after the last eruption.

Soon after the lava flow section, we entered an area that could best be called desert. We were fortunate that it rained recently and the footing was better than usual. Still, we felt our energy slipping away on the soft trail. This section didn’t last very long and we were soon back on hardpack trail.

Lunar

The landscape of the center section of our hike could best be described as lunar. We made our way around several cinder cones that looked like they could have erupted just recently, though we knew that not to be true. Lacking water in the rain shadow of the Crater’s walls, erosion takes place very slowly without vegetation to help break down the rock. In fact, one of the only plants is the silversword, unique to this location and possibly one of the hardiest plants on the planet.

Leaving the Crater floor meant a return of vegetation, but also of rain. We also reentered an enormous lava flow that managed to wind its way through man-made and natural pathways. The mist became closer as we descended and soon we were again enveloped in the light rain of a cloud.

Two hours after finding ourselves back in rain, we arrived at Paliku Campsite.

Paliku Campsite

At 6,380 feet (1,945m), Paliku is located on the east end of a beautiful valley at the base of a rain forest cliff.  We were very happy to arrive and quickly looked for a campsite. Unfortunately, just as we began to unpack, the rain started coming down very hard and the inside of our mostly-screen tent was soaked before we could cover it with the rainfly. Jeanne spent the next several minutes drying the tent floor as best she could, but the damage was done and we would have a wet tent for the the night. We spent the next two hours eating salami, our dried mangos and sunflower seeds. Darkness arrived at 7pm, and we were fast asleep minutes later.

Up next: Part 2 of Hiking the Halemau’u Trail to the Paliku Campsite at Haleakala National Park

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Getting married (again) in Maui

Mar. 24 Beaches 4 comments

It would be against our style to do things the way others do, so while many people get married in Maui (Maui’d, as the Maui wedding people say), we get married annually in Maui.

We showed up at the Kihei Boat Ramp just before 5pm and had a few minutes to enjoy the breeze and gorgeous evening before meeting Dennis DeRego, the minister who we found by chance the first time but have returned to by choice .

Our last time in Maui, Dennis offered to take us out in his boat the next time we tie the knot, and this was our chance to take him up on it. While the winds were strong, the skies were amazingly clear and the waves not so bad.  We decided to get remarried on the boat as a nice touch. It was an excellent choice, as it turned out. The pleasure of knowing Dennis and being able to do something most visitors never do makes us feel less like tourists and more connected to the island.

Molokini

Dennis expertly launched the boat and we were on the water within fifteen minutes of his arrival, catching up on life since we last spoke. In a seemingly short time, we were motoring around the offshore island of Molokini, a favorite local dive spot. We circled the island and then headed toward Black Sand Beach where we could have calmer waters for the ceremony.

Even though we offered to keep it simple to save Dennis the trouble of getting dressed, he insisted that we have the full experience, even on the boat. He put on his wedding shirt and robe, and even topped things off with his leafy headdress and brought out the famous Dennis DeRego conch.

Black Sand Beach

As the boat rocked from side to side, we had our ceremony. Of course, he chanted in Hawaiian before blowing the conch several times. His Hawaiian wedding chant is an excellent local part of being married by Dennis. He gave us each a moment to share our feelings about being married, but that part will need to stay between the three of us, as we love our private wedding ceremonies. We completed our mission to marry again and had an excellent cruise back to Kehei Harbor as it grew darker .

We can’t say enough about what being married each year means for us. We don’t need it as a reminder or even a refresh, but it gives us the same thrill each time as we know each other better. We agreed after that each year it has new meaning because of new experiences, challenges, and more life behind us.

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Hiking Maui in March 2012

Mar. 22 Camping, Hawaii, Hiking adventures, Maui, Other adventures no comments

You can have no doubt by now that we love the Hawaiian Islands. While they are just one of fifty states, they are in every other way almost nothing like the Mainland. The palm trees, warm breezes and gorgeous tropical flowers can be found elsewhere, but in no other American state can you find the combination of backcountry hiking, deep blue waters, ocean adventures and Polynesian laid-back culture.

We were married in Maui a few years back and decided to return as often as we could, annually if possible, to get married in paradise.

Day 1 – Arrive and stay at the Sheraton Maui in Ka’anapali. This hotel sits on a point of land known as Black Rock and has some of the best protected snorkeling and beaches on the same stretch of Maui’s West Coast. Being in a hotel the first night lets us rest up from the flight and be ready to hike.

Day 2 – Stay at beautiful Camp Olowalu near Lahaina and see a Switchfoot concert in Kahului on the East Coast of the island. Camp Olowalu has both cabins and tent sites and we’ll try each as we enjoy sleeping at the edge of the surf.

Day 3 – Get married (again) by Dennis DeRego in a small, sunset ceremony on the Molokini Atoll just offshore from where we were originally married at Makena (AKA ‘Secret’) Cove. We’ll take Dennis’ boat out to the island.

Day 4 and 5  – Hike from the top of the Haleakala Crater at 2435 m (7,990 ft) down to the remote campsite of Paliku at 1,944 m (6380 ft). The campsite is at the base of cliffs that form the boundary of the rainforest that dominates the Southeast Coast of Maui. Few people associate backpacking and Hawaii, and we’re about to change that.

There’s no limit to what you can do in a tropical paradise like Maui and the other Hawaiian Islands. That’s why we keep coming back here and know we’re only getting started. Watch our blog over the next week as we tell the story of another amazing adventure.

Aloha.

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Thanksgiving 2011 in Kaua’i, Hawai’i

Nov. 24 Beaches, Hawaii, Kaua'i 3 comments

We have a habit of spending holidays doing very non-traditional things, taking advantage of inexpensive hotels and less-crowded places. Thanksgiving 2011 was no different as we took the long holiday in our favorite island destination, Kaua’i.

Past adventures

We’ve been here several times together and have found it one of the absolute best islands to pursue adventures like we had hiking around Kaua’i in July 2011, and camping around Kauai in August 2009. We’ve covered most of the island that is accessible by foot and by car, with the exception of the Na’pali Coast, the enormous park that prevents the highway from circling the island. We’ve kayaked the rivers and coast and consider many islanders as friends, undoubtedly because they feel our enthusiasm for their home. Because Kaua’i is much less touristy than other islands, it doesn’t have the same distance between its visitors and the people who live there.

With the holiday dinner still a ways off, we had a few things to accomplish before sitting down to eat:

Sheraton Poipu

This is a great hotel. We wouldn’t rank it as fancy but it isn’t pretentious either. We have always been able to have a walkout room on the first floor that faces the ocean. Mornings and evenings feel like we have a personal patio on the sea in a way that is very un-hotel-like. It has been recently renovated (not that it was bad before) and has a warm and friendly feel in what could be a very touristy place. It sits on Poipu Beach but at the end where the lava reaches out to the sea and makes for great wave breaks so near to our room. From the hotel, there is an excellent five mile run along the sea to the north that we’ve taken many mornings. It passes Spouting Horn as well, a blowhole that spouts both water and makes a ghostly howl regularly.

Polihale

I don’t know why we love driving off road, whether it be dirt tracks or sandy beaches, but it somehow touches a need to do something out of bounds and maybe a bit unacceptable. Since we ride dirt bikes in the mountains and deserts around LA, we often feel too hemmed in when we leave home for places where we can’t take our motorcycles. Polihale Beach is one of the few that allow cars to drive on the sand, although you do so at your own risk. We usually have a four wheel drive (required) and reduce the air pressure in the tires to get better traction. Most importantly, however, we don’t stop unless we need to, and we avoid the deep, white sand that lies beyond the highest tide line. The part of the beach that can be driven is several miles long, mostly deserted, and great fun.

Flying over Kaua’i

After so many trips on the ground in cars, kayaks and on foot, we finally decided to take a helicopter flight. We had witnessed the helicopters dipping into the valleys and providing views of mountains and waterfalls that can’t be approached any other way. We’re no fans of noisy machines interrupting nature, but Kaua’i has such vast stretches that are uninhabited and essentially unreachable, we made an exception. Afterward, we agreed that it was a great exception to make. This was an exceptional adventure that we didn’t expect to have in a place where we normally do much more physically demanding activities.

The flight was what Island Helicopters called an ’earlybird special’ at 8:00am from the Lihue Airport, the main airport on the island. We were up at sunrise, which is never a bad thing on a tropical island. After a quick safety briefing, we boarded the helicopter and met our pilot. From the moment the flight took off, nose low and moving rapidly toward the northwest and back toward our hotel in Poipu, we knew this was no tame adventure.

Isaac, our pilot, was a young, native Hawaiian who was very comfortable skimming low over Kaua’i's jagged ridges and flying in tight to canyon walls to give us the best view. We saw more waterfalls than we could possibly remember, a feral goat perched in the center of an enormous, nearly verticle cliff, and circled over humpback wales breaching off the Na’pali Coast. The last waterfalls we viewed were some of the most amazing…the wettest spot on Earth at Mount Waialeale, where over 1000 cm (400 inches) of rain falls every year.

It was well worth the $173 per person ‘special’. If you go, request Isaac, an excellent pilot who chose the perfect music and provided interesting conversation through the flight. We can think of few better ways to spend a Thanksgiving holiday morning than with a great guide flying over an island paradise.

With a few adventures knocked out, it was time to decide how to have our meal.

Traditional Thanksgiving?

Maybe not, but a great way to have the holiday. We called around to several hotels and restaurants before deciding on the Thanksgiving buffet at the Grand Hyatt Kaua’i in Poipu. I doubt we could have made a better choice. This hotel and its services are truly grand.  Of course, there were the standard turkey, mashed potatoes, gravy, stuffing and cranberry. There were apple and pumpkin pies as well.

But what about several kinds of ribs, crab, shrimp, omelettes, breads, cheeses, fruits, and many different salads. With a view of the ocean and lush gardens, it was a feast for the eyes and stomach. It would be hard to image a better place or setting for a holiday meal away from home. After several hours and too many trips to the buffet tables, we staggered back to our car for the short trip back to the Sheraton. Another holiday well-celebrated.

With Thanksgiving celebrated, it was time to explore more of the island:

North shore

Getting around to the North Shore of Kaua’i is like flying to another island. The wet side of Kaua’i is lush and the vegetation crowds the roads, a green wall only broken by beaches (where parking is anywhere under the trees on the shore) and one lane bridges with a local custom of 5-7 cars alternating passage in each direction. Just before the end of the road, there is even a place where cars cross a shallow stream, reinforcing how much water comes to this side of the island, thanks to Trade Winds that ‘collide’ with the high peaks that dominate the Na’pali Coast and center of the island.

Beach paradise

We decided to spend some time at Haena Beach Park, one mile short of the end of the road at Ke’e Beach, the start of the Kalalau Trail. We picked this spot because it has bathrooms, a lifeguard, and amazing views of the Bali Hai peaks just to the west and a fantastic surf break just to the east at Tunnels Beach. Tunnels, unfortunately, is where a female surfer lost an arm a few years back to a tiger shark. We stayed much closer to the shore than she did, not that we were worried.

Hanalei

Few developed places are more beautiful than the Hanalei Valley. The ancient taro fields that fed the islanders before better choices were introduced by outsiders were in abudance in this very fertile and well-watered valley. The local joke is that taro is only fed to tourists at luau’s, as the islanders find it awful and won’t eat it. If true, that has to be one of the funniest ironies in tourism. We haven’t had any yet, and this didn’t convince us to try it, either.

Seafood

Kaua’i isn’t the place to get hamburgers or even steak. It is the place to get some of the most creative and tasty seafood…especially the fish. It tastes just as good inland, but has a special flair when you can eat with a view of palm trees and blue water. Dinner at Brenneke’s in Poipu is a special treat if you show up early (by 5:30pm or so) and can get a seat along the windows. Our apologies for the low-quality phone photo, but you’ll get the idea. The wind in the trees and the open-air dining were enough to make this a delightful evening. Brenneke’s calls themselves a “beach broiler” and that’s exactly what you can expect, as the meals are simple and the alaskan king crab appetizer is perfect for two.

Sunset cruising

In keeping with our more ‘civilized’ vacation, we scheduled a cruise with Captain Andy’s Charters in Port Allen and ended up with Captain Rick, our boat captain who was part seaman, part stand up comedian, part encyclopedia of all things Kaua’i. From his pre-cruise briefing to being the last to say goodbye at the top of the gangway leaving the boat, he was absolutely great and helped make our trip very enjoyable.

Besides Captain Rick, we enjoyed an exceptionally friendly crew, including Tara, a hard-working mate who shared our passion for hiking and has many adventures similar to our. Our crew successfully  brought us to Hawaiian spinner dolphins, humpback whales and nearly to Kalalau Beach on the Na’Pali Coast despite large swells and very strong winds from the north. We were able to look up the deep valleys that make up this wind and wind sculpted part of the island and to watch waves crashing into sea caves and rocky cliffs.

There were very few dry places on the luxurious 20 m (65 ft) Southern Star catamaran but if you didn’t mind getting wet (and who should in Kaua’i at sea?), it was a fantastic ride. We stayed in the very front of the catamaran for the entire trip, even during our steak, shrimp and asparagas dinner that was brought to us by the crew. Being in the front meant riding the swells more than any other part of the boat, and at times we were dropping and rising 3 meters or more with sea spray hitting us every few minutes. We don’t think sunset cruises are normally such a wild ride, and we were grateful that our captain was able to take us so far up the coast despite the conditions.

Sunsets

Sunset over Ni’ihau on the way back was a spectacular sight, as all Kaua’i sunsets are, but when you stand at the rail, wind blowing steadily, looking at only water between you and the sunset, it takes on a special meaning.

We love the island of Kaua’i and think every day in our lives should end like this. Now to figure out how to make that a reality…

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Camping around the island of Kaua’i in August 2009

Aug. 30 Hawaii, Kaua'i 2 comments

We had a great plan for our trip to Kaua’i at the end of August 2009, knowing that our true target, the Kalalau Trail, was closed for a goat hunt. We planned to drive to Kekaha, on the western (leeward and dry) side of the island to pick up a kayak from friends and paddle north east from Polihale Beach to  the Na Pali Coast. The plan was simple enough. Though the cliffs are steep and run right to the Pacific, there are coves and beaches along the way that make excellent remote camping sites, like Miloli’i Beach. We picked up the tandem sea kayak, purchased some last-minute supplies and were at Polihale well before sunset.

It was exciting to be so close to this rugged and remote coast of an island paradise like Kaua’i. Polihale Beach gets narrower as you go north until it simply runs out of flat and becomes an impassible cliff. The only way to continue toward the Na Pali Coast was to leave shore, which made it even more important that we had a seaworthy means of transportation. Our kayak would have to carry everything we would need for several days. We double and triple checked all of our gear to make sure everything fit, was watertight where it needed to be, was attached to the kayak and wouldn’t be lost by rolling over. We were truly ready. It was a very hot evening and no fire was necessary, though we made one just for the ambiance. We slept on top of our sleeping bags, which were wholly unnecessary on this side of the island.

Change of plans

An unscheduled goat hunt and then Mother Nature had a way of changing our best-laid plans. We awoke the next morning to the first northern swell that typically ends the summer of easy kayaking on mostly flat ocean. Undeterred, we packed up our camp and dragged our heavily-laden kayak to the water’s edge. As we drew closer to the shoreline, it became more apparent just how big the swell really was. The waves were  breaking late and were powerful, causing a steep drop off to form where the ocean met land. Once over that drop, there was no protection from the incoming waves and no gradual way to get through the first set of breakers.

We tried our best to get the timing right and to move quickly, but Jeanne was battered at the front of the kayak by every approaching wave, and it was impossible to steer the kayak from the back. We were on our third or fourth exhausting attempt to launch when a local came up to us and at first offered to help but then declared it a ‘bad idea.’ Looking back, I’m glad he showed up. We were very determined and may have ended up in a dangerous situation if we made it through that first set of waves.

Plan C

So what do you do on Kaua’i when you have a car, a kayak and all of your camping supplies for the next three days? You go find water somewhere else. That was exactly the conclusion we came to once we got over the disappointment of missing the Na Pali Coast yet again. The best, protected water we could find on the map was the Wailua River, near the village of Kapa’a on the southeast side of the island. This is normally a place where tourists rent kayaks take short trips upriver. That simply isn’t our style, so we launched into the river and paddled up to the supposedly ‘Secret Waterfall’ that wasn’t at all secret. It was great to paddle on the very scenic river, but it wasn’t enough adventure for fun junkies like us.

The rope swing

Locals told us there was a spot up a branch of the river with a rope swing and we needed to check this out. There was also a place called “Fern Grotto” that most people visit by a large riverboat that chugs up the river several times per day. Once past the disappointment of the very unsecret Secret Waterfall (there were reasonably large crowds for a weekday in August) we relaunched to check out these other spots.

While the Fern Grotto was interesting and pretty, nothing made our day like being able to swing out over the water on a long rope placed by locals. We took turns on the rope, each time going a little higher and a little further out. We had fun doing this until the mosquitoes drove us away (we weren’t prepared for this problem). Paddling back down the Wailua River was the usual challenge of overtaking every other kayak we saw, no matter how far off in the distance. We’re a little too competitive in that way. After a dinner in Kapa’a, we headed to a beach we’d heard about but had never visited, Anini.

Anini Beach

A perfectly groomed and gorgeous beach, but not exactly remote or private, Anini Beach is a local park that locals use for family events. It was quiet on a weeknight and we found an excellent campsite just inside the treeline and quite close to the water. This part of the island is protected by a reef about 100 m (300 yards) offshore so there were no waves near enough to be a risk for sleeping right at the ocean’s edge.

Walking up in paradise, a few meters from the water is an experience everyone should have. The daybreak was cool and still in a way that made it very easy to sit at the water’s edge and soak in the atmosphere. We sat for only a few minutes before we became aware of movement in the sand in front of us. Sand crabs were busy digging holes, fighting over holes, and generally going about their early morning business. We probably passed thirty minutes just watching it all happen.

Not having a plan

From Anini, with no idea of what to do next, we stopped in a coffee shop to have a bite to eat and enjoy the morning. A group of ten or so people sitting nearby asked us to take their picture, which led to a conversation about their plan to hike to a nearby, truly secret waterfall. There was no way we could resist this opportunity. We parked blocks away and accompanied the eclectic group as we made our way through cow pastures and fields, crossing what was obviously private property, until we came to one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever visited. This ‘secret waterful’ is known to locals and not an easy place to get to unless you know the path and maybe the property owners that surround this slice of paradise. We were able to swim out and climb directly under the 25 m (40 ft) cascade. On a warm day, the water was the perfect temperature for a natural shower.

Kilauea

There were few ways to top what we’d done so far just that morning, so we decided to spend the day sightseeing the north shore. The first stop was Kilauea Lighthouse, a tall classic lighthouse that sits far out on a skinny point of land. It was a beautiful spot to watch the waves come in and crash against the nearly vertical walls of the cove below. It was easy to think it was the coast of Maine or California except for the warm trade winds and fantastic scenery in every direction.

Secret Beach

‘Secret’ seemed to be the theme of this adventure, and our friends from the waterfall gave us a parting gift of directions to Secret Beach, or “Secrets” as the locals call it. This is a beach that you’ll never find without good directions, as the trail involves parking in a very unlikely-looking place next to enormous houses under construction and then following a small footpath with no view of the stunning beach that lies at the other end. From the moment the trail opens onto the sand, it is a clearly exceptional place from the color of the sand, to the water, to the view of Kilauea Lighthouse off in the far distance. The waves are driven by an offshore wind that gives a savage look to the place and causes strange patterns in the sand. We spent a few hours in the magical place before heading off to our hotel for our last night on the island.

Spouting Horn

With our time on Kaua’i coming to a close, we made our way back to the west side of the island and to a popular blow hole in the lava rock known as Spouting Horn. Not only does it shoot water in the air as waves roll into its underground crevasses, but the sound it makes is other-worldly as it moans and howls. Fences keep the tourists far away, and this is understandable as the temptation to get closer is powerful.

We already thought Kaua’i was amazing even before we found these treasures, but this trip cemented its reputation with us. We plan to go back in November 2011 to finally hike the Kalalau Trail along the Na Pali Coast over Thanksgiving Weekend. We feel sure that no matter how many times we go back, we’ll continue to find more reasons to love this island.

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Four recommendations for Honolulu and the Island of Oahu

Jul. 08 Beaches, Hawaii, O'ahu no comments

Just because we were on an island paradise didn’t mean we wanted to sit still.  We look for adventure everywhere we go and locals are often a great source of inspiration.  Within hours of our arrival we’d met Jason and Fermin at the Royal Hawaiian.  When we explained that we love to hike, climb and kayak, they either inspired us with where to find our own adventure, or in one case, took us.  Hats off to them…their ideas were excellent.

Recommendation 1:  Kayak from Kailua

Near the eastern end of Oahu is the town of Kailua, better known as the gateway to the US Marine Base at Kaneohe Bay, but lesser known as a great place to launch a kayak and to paddle around the islands offshore. The islands are in some part bird sanctuaries, so the rules for landing or walking vary, but the Na Mokulua (“two islands”) are a little over a kilometer offshore or about 2 km. from Kailua. You can land and walk around the outside edge of the northwestern island, Moku Nui, and this small island also has a very nice sand beach that can only be accessed by the adventurous willing to powerboat or paddle out. We tried to walk the entire island perimeter, but there was a healthy swell that day that not only made the windward side dangerous, but also made for a strange break on the leeward side as waves came together from the west, the east and between the islands. The waves were difficult enough that we saw several people struggle to stay on their kayaks and a few flip over. Between a great launching beach at Kailua (or the stream bed that didn’t quite reach the ocean) to the hiking and lovely beach on the left-hand island, this is a great way to spend an afternoon. Even the rain on our way back just added to the day’s variety. There are several kayak rental places in Kailua that can be found on Google.

Recommendation 2:  Stairway to Heaven (Haiku Steps)

This adventure isn’t for the feint of heart.  It is one of Oahu’s “forbidden” trails and must be accessed in creative ways, including going after dark when the security guard is off-duty.  The stairway was originally built to allow access to a navigational antenna 646 m. (2,120 ft.) up the thin, classically-Hawaiian ridge. Our new friends told us we needed headlamps and to meet at 7pm.  A quick trip to the store had us ready to climb the 3,922-step metal staircase.

The plan was to park in the residential neighborhood near the entrance, quickly depart our cars before arousing the suspicion of the neighbors (who frown on anyone sneaking in) and to find our way up a drainage ditch.  Everything went according to plan and we were on the first sections of metal staircase within 15 minutes of parking.  Other than very slippery mud, the challenge was to find our way quietly in the dark as we passed through backyards and gaps in fences. Anyone wanting to claim ignorance of the prohibition on climbing would have to ignore the many signs warning of the staircase’s closure to the public.

The staircase was created by bolting sections of pre-made steel stairs into the rock, and then connecting each section together so that the staircase could ‘follow’ the contours of the ridge. This meant that in the steepest sections, the stairs were much more like a ladder, and in the less steep areas, more like a flat, steel walkway. Since we were on the windward side of Oahu, the trade winds brought clouds around us which made the staircase slippery but also obscured our view of just how far the drops were on each side. It was a wet, cold stair-master that lasted an hour an half on the way up and less than 45 minutes on the way down.  The view of the lights of Haiku, Kailua and Kaneohe Bay were worth the climb. Going down was the more treacherous direction as the sometimes-vertical pitch meant turning around and going down ladder-style.  This is an exhilarating hike for those willing to break a few rules.

Recommendation 3:  Wa’ahila Ridge

There are few hikes more beautiful and yet very close to a major city.  The Wa’ahila Ridge Trail begins just outside Honolulu at the Wa’ahila Ridge State Recreation Area, at the end of St. Louis Drive.  The total trail is 3.8 km. (2.4 miles) in each direction with several flat, grassy areas along the way that afford fantastic views of Honolulu and toward Diamond Head. There are steep parts that require going hand-over-hand with vines and tree roots and good shoes are necessary as intermittent rain causes the clay ground to become quite slippery in places. The brief showers that we experienced didn’t bother us as they were refreshing and created fantastic single and double rainbows. The hike is steep in parts but is an easy morning or afternoon outing.

Recommendation 4:  Drive the North Shore

While this isn’t a hiking exercise, the North Shore is a must-see.  From surf-watching at Banzai Pipeline (our morning), gorgeous beaches at Waimea Bay (our afternoon) and just dining and relaxing at Haleiwa (our evening to sunset), this is the place to spend a day just taking in sights from a rental car.

We’ve spent more time on the other islands that are well-known for their outdoor activities, but were very pleasantly surprised to see that Oahu was great for our type of adventures as well.

For another of our Hawaiian adventures, see Hiking Kauai’s Koke’e State Park in May 2011.

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