Tag: Adventure Geo Treks

Mera Peak Expedition — Going as high as possible on Mera Peak

Dec. 27 Mera Peak 2011, Nepal, Trekking adventures 3 comments

The following is a continuation of Mera Peak Expedition — Khare to Mera High Camp.

Saturday, October 22

We were awakened at 6am with the announcement that the skies were clear and we would see if we could reach High Camp. After breakfast and bag packing/water bottle thawing, we set out on the same route that turned us back just the day before. This time, with Khare full of frustrated climbers who had waited out yesterday’s storm and also those who had descended to get out of the storm.

Traffic jam

There was a complete traffic jam on the first climbs from camp. This caused delays on the trail that would sometimes cause more standing than moving, as the snowfall made stepping off the beaten path a potentially treacherous choice.

Tell him, “Gordy broke his leg”

At one point, we passed a few porters and came upon a British climber lying on his side in the snow. He didn’t seem to be in pain, but was not moving and had several others around him. We asked if we could help and was told to, “Find Ian and tell him Gordy broke his leg.” Not knowing Ian and being on a steep section above 5,000 m., this was no easy request. we started out as quickly as I we could, asking every Westerner, “Are you Ian?”

There were many negative responses, many climbing groups passed and lots of vertical ascent before another Brit finally responded, “Yes, I’m Ian.” When we breathlessly gave him the news, he immediately thanked us and made his way down the mountain. We saw Ian much later in the day and were told that Gordy actually had a dislocated knee and was helicoptered out to Kathmandu hours earlier. Helicopters are a great business to be in in Nepal, as a one-hour ride is $2500 and we saw two come and go in the three days we were in Khare.

Haves and have nots

There was less fresh snow than the day before and porters seemed better prepared. Sure, there were still tennis shoes, but some cleverly wrapped with rope to create a “tire chain” effect and others with stretch rubber devices that had small teeth to grip the snow. Our guides, DB and Buddi, both were well-prepared with warm clothing, ice axes and plastic thermal boots. This was likely a necessity for their role in the Expedition but also possibly a reflection of their ‘full time guide’ status within Adventure Geo Treks.

We continued upward, passing the point where we turned around the day before at 5300 m (17,390 ft). This time, however, we could clearly see the layout of the mountain and where the path forward led. Groups that set out much earlier were already small dots in a line far in the distance, making their way to High Camp. The day was still very sunny but there were clouds making their way up from the far side of the mountain and also from the valley back in the direction of Khare.

Disaster avoided

We also noticed gigantic crevasses all around that the trail carefully navigated. We had been told that there were no crevasses, but this was obviously poor information. You could drive a Winnebago into the ones we saw. If we had continued up the day before, the odds that we would have walked into a crevasse in the near white out condition on the Mera Glacier would have been very high. It was remarkable that the groups at High Camp successfully navigated their way down safely.

One foot in front of the other

We passed Base Camp just below Mera La at 5400 m (17,716 ft) and continued climbing. It was our personal goal to reach 5500 m (18,000 ft) so that we could have a nice round number as our personal best altitude. Along the way, we picked up Ursi and Dennis and encouraged them higher and to join in our goal, which they gladly did.

It was a game of check-the-altimeter-and-find-the-next-rise as we waited for the number to be met. We would take turns leading as a way to pull the other person along, one person putting one foot in front of the other, the other person just watching the boots of the person in front.

This is a technique that has helped us up many mountains, but we had never been as high as that day. It was remarkable how fifty meters seemed like an enormous goal when so high in altitude. Sometimes you have to just create mental games of counting steps, making short-term commitments to a particular landmark, or putting your focus on your breathing.

We finally stopped, breathless and tired at 5502 (18,000 ft). It was time to eat our food, take in an amazing view and then head back down the significant distance to camp. From our vantage point, we could clearly see Chamlang, Makalu and Lhotse. It was disappointed that we needed to be higher to see Everest, as it was blocked by a nearby high peak.

It was tantalizing to see High Camp in the distance and to be able to make out the peak pyramid so easily on the horizon. Preparation, travel, and a great deal of work went into reaching this particular point, and only our schedule prevented us from attaining the summit. It was a very difficult choice but we were well aware that what seems like a kilometer can be hours at that altitude. These were hours we didn’t have.

Turning around

It was still outstanding to reach this height and to be so close to High Camp, which we could make out clearly in the distance. We met some climbers returning who reported that High Camp snow, even after a windy night, was still hip-deep (to a Westerner) and that those setting out from High Camp to the Summit had to turn around due to the exhaustion of breaking a new path in even deeper snow. We made the right call.

With out flight out of Lukla looming on Wednesday, we needed to get back down to Khare and be able to head out by the next day. Clouds were moving in quickly and by the time we reached the foot of the Mera Glacier, the peak was obscured and it was beginning to snow again. We love adventure but we’re against taking foolish risks. Seeing the weather change gave us strong reassurances that our decision was a wise one. We made it our goal to quickly descend below the crevasse fields at the foot of the glacier.

Transcending politics

On the way down we met up with an Iranian team that included a medical doctor, Sina Nedaei, with whom we shared hours of conversation about politics and the relationship between the US and Iran. We wished them well as they continued up and we went down, knowing they were more likely to reach the summit with a larger window of days for the weather to improve. It was a great reminder of how adventure and sport transcend politics and how much the two teams were alike despite what you read in the news.

Tough going

The path down was much more slippery from the many feet that packed the snow as trekkers, guides and porters made their way up. The many Nike and Converse shoes that were worn on the way up polished the snow on and around the rocks in a way that hiking boots and crampons never would, and we felt very fortunate to make it to Khare without any significant falls.

Last reminder

As a last reminder of the danger of climbing so high in fresh snow, we were treated to several avalanches on the way down. The sound and the obvious power were very sobering and we watched them in silence.

We were exhausted on our arrival. Skipping dinner, we were ready to sleep as soon as the sun set at 5:30 pm.

Next up: Mera Peak Expedition — Heading back down the Hinku Valley

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Mera Peak Expedition — Acclimatization in Khare

Dec. 26 Mera Peak 2011, Nepal, Trekking adventures 2 comments

The following is a continuation of Mera Peak Expedition — Tangnag to Khare.

Thursday, 20 October

The morning started as our coldest yet, with the first light appearing at 5:30 am and the sun appearing over Mera Peak at 9am. Joel, Karlin and Chris were talking with an Indian climber who summitted the day before, and he mentioned that a member of his team had altitude sickness and would be helicopter evacuated before 9am. Our own Mike Miller had been talking for the past day about being taken out by helicopter as he didn’t feel well. On the trail, he was overheard the day before saying several times, “This would be a good spot to land a helicopter.”

Inbound

With that in mind, we quickly found Mike, DB and Buddi and let them know. Within a few minutes, calls were made to Kathmandu and just after breakfast the sound of a helicopter could be heard coming up the valley. It came in low in the valley as a way to put off climbing too high, too soon in the thin air.

Dust cloud

At the last minute, the bright yellow helicopter dove into a valley toward Tangnag to pick up speed and then crested the ridge to our east and set down in a cloud of dust on the ridge to the ridge above Khare. The rotors continued to turn as bags and people were loaded quickly.

Mike’s ride

The helicopter struggled to lift off for a second before gaining a meter or so of altitude and then dropping quickly off the ridge and out of view as a way of gaining air speed. It appeared again much lower in the valley, above Mera Glacier and quickly disappeared out of view beyond Tangnag nearly 600 m (2000 ft) below us.

Climbing Khare Ri

As an acclimatization day, we decided to hike to the top of Khare Ri, the peak just to the north of our campsite. From the camp we could see prayer flags and cairns on the hill above but little did we know this was NOT the top. We soon discovered this, though, as we climbed our way up in the bright sunshine and thin air.

Leaving our mark

When we finally reached the crest, we put Buddi’s excellent cairn-building skills to work and he quickly constructed a pile aroud five feet in height. It was great to leave our mark on the summit of the hill by putting up the biggest (and, of course, best) cairn on that spot.  We made our way quickly back down the hill as it had grown colder due to a high layer of cirrus clouds that had us concerned about possible poor weather approaching. With only two days to to the summit, the last challenge we wanted to face was poor weather. Our window for summitting was only two days if we were to reach Lukla for our flights back to Kathmandu.

Dr. Crevasse

Once back at camp it was much warmer even with the thin clouds as we were out of the wind and among breeze-stopping buildings. We were greeted with hot grape cool-aid (a Nepali original) that tasted great after the effort and had us feeling fortified and strong in a few minutes. DB informed us that Subash “Dr. Crevasse” Rai left for High Camp that day to establish three tent sights for the people heading up tomorrow. This would limit the amount of weight that would need to be carried tomorrow but also would ‘reserve’ decent sites that would be ready for our arrival without a wait for setup. If the weather at High Camp is cold or windy, having sites established can make all of the difference in the world.

We had some time for relaxing in the remaining sun and resting our bodies for what was sure to be one of the biggest challenges of our lives. This day broke the record for Jeanne and I as we climbed to 5197 m (17,050 ft) on Khare Ri, and the next two days would smash that record by a wide margin.

Rope practice

After lunch we did rope work with Pemba Dendi Sherpa, our local guide who was hired by Adventure Geo Treks. First we all brought out our equipment to make sure we were all set with climbing boots, crampons, ice axes, harnesses, carabiners, and an ascender/jumar. Once we did our inventory it was time to make sure safety lines were sized, cut and tied off at this lower, warmer altitude where thinking is clearer and we had time to prepare at a leisurely pace. We then made our way to a steep slope nearby where a rope was tied off, an intermediate stake fixed, and then each climber practiced rappelling and ascending using the prescribed methods of our climbing sherpa.

With everyone frozen from periods of inactivity it was time for tea, biscuits and more relaxation. Hot tea was served and we warmed up in the sun near our tents before each of us left to pack our duffel for the next day’s trip to High Camp. While we packed, large-flaked snow began to fall on our tents, leaving us wondering if there was greater accumulation along tomorrow’s route or if this was just the result of the afternoon’s passing low clouds. Dinner was an excellent combination of macaroni and spring rolls, finished off by canned pineapple. Last minute conversations were had about what to expect tomorrow, and with that, we retired to our tents for a much needed rest.

Up next: Mera Peak Expedition — Khare to Mera High Camp

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Mera Peak Expedition — Kote to Tangnag

Dec. 25 Mera Peak 2011, Nepal, Trekking adventures 2 comments

The following is a continuation of Mera Peak Expedition — Odare Camp to Kote.

Tuesday, 18 October

Morning was the coldest yet, with our clothing that was hanging on the line having frost streaks where the dew fell and then froze overnight. We slept with our sleeping bags zipped together for the first time and we found it warm and quite comfortable, except for Chris’ ground pad sliding out the side throughout the night. Once you become sleepy enough, you can sleep on almost anything and at some point I gave up the fight and slept soundly on the thinner ground mattress provided by Adventure Geo Treks.

Packing pros

For one of the first times, we slept almost until the hot water arrived, but were able to catch up and have everything packed in a very short time. Each day we became faster at organizing and packing, with no conversation even necessary as each of us knew what was needed to be prepared. We were going up to 4100 m (13,451 ft) this day and it would be much colder, so knowing this, we kept an extra thermal layer in our day packs. We’ve learned the hard way that sometimes the porter carrying our bags is the last to arrive, forcing us to wait for any layers of clothing or equipment that we left in our large duffels. At the end of a day, that can seem like forever.

The morning sky was clear and the peaks of Mera were lit up by the sun that hadn’t yet reached the narrow Hinku River Valley. Our camp was on the moraine left by the retreating glacier that departed this valley many years ago. The variety of large and small boulders, all covered with a thick layer of moss, the prayer flags of Khote, and the fringe of pine on the sides of the valley combined to make this appear an idyllic alpine place and provided a reminder of how high we really were. We started walking at 7:30am, per the usual schedule and followed along the west bank of the river, periodically crossing streams coming in from the mountains  to our left.

High Himalaya

Soon after leaving Khote, we were treated to an excellent view of Tangtse, a nearly perfectly pyramid-shaped peak that was dead center in the direction we were headed. Most of the 6770 m (22,211 ft) pyramid was snow and ice covered with hanging serac at the base. As we climbed higher, we were able to see beyond the largest peak to our left, Kusum Khangkaru, at 6370 m (20,899 ft) and had an excellent view of the Lungsamba and Tangnag Glaciers descending from the peak. The Hinku River gorge was very wide at this point and steep-walled, with the trail at times at the very edge of a significant drop to the river below.

Sabo Lake disaster

Just before arriving at Tangnag itself, Buddi told us about the Sabo Tsho (Sabo Lake), a lake held back by a moraine that burst in the Summer of 1997, causing a wall of water to roar down the Hinku Valley, washing out the village of Tangnag completely and killing everyone in the village and causing landslides far down the valley as the wall scoured the sides of the river. Fortunately, the lake is much smaller now and well-contained by the existing moraine.

Tangnag

We arrived in Tangnag at 4300 m (14,108 ft) at 11:30am. It had been a short time trekking from Khote, but we gained nearly 500 m. The village was a seasonal site existing mainly to support trekkers hiking over the Mera La and to Mera Peak, to the east and high above the village. There were about ten permanent buildings and there were no longer glass windows, as every opening on the buildings was covered by plastic instead. We used the opportunity to rest and have lunch in one of the buildings while our tents were being set up on the terraces outsides. After lunch and as a way to acclimatize better, we decided to take a hike up the hill with just water bottles. We climbed to 4575 m (15,101 ft) before turning around and felt quite proud of ourselves until we met up with Karlin, who had left earlier and climbed to 5000 m (16,404 ft).

Brief illness

Not longer after our return, Chris began to get a headache and felt nausea. The next two hours were a blur as he ended up curled up in a ball in his sleeping bag, his hat off as it made his head hurt even more. He threw up a few times but after falling asleep for what had to be about ten minutes, he awoke with a clear head and strong stomach. We’re not sure if we’ll ever know what laid him low, but it was intense but relatively short and altitude sickness doesn’t work that way.

Up next: Mera Peak Expedition — Tangnag to Khare

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