Category: Peaks

Mt San Gorgonio by Vivian Creek on Memorial Day, 2012

May. 28 Dog fun, Hiking adventures, Mt San Gorgonio, Peaks, San Bernardinos, Southern California 2 comments

Mt San Gorgonio in the San Bernardino Mountains is more than the highest peak in Southern California at 3506 m (11,503 ft)…it is also also the 18th most prominent mountain in the United States. The peak is visible from great distances and nicknamed “Old Greyback.” It has the strange distinction of claiming the lives of Frank Sinatra’s mother and the son of Dean Martin in separate plane crashes.

While there is camping along the trail at the campsites listed below, we chose to climb Mt San Gorgonio in a single day. Even though we chose the shortest path to the summit, it made for a very long hike of 29 km (18 miles) round trip.

Trailhead

We started off at 7am on an unusually cold but sunny day for the end of May. The trail started as a gravel road that continued from the parking lot along the bank of an enormous and rocky wash. After turning at the second “Trail” sign (there are actually two…don’t take the first one). We made our way across to the forest on the other side and the start of what we called, “The Big Wall.”

Vivian Creek

Don’t be too alarmed by the first section of the trail. It is the steepest and climbs an enormous wall on the north side of the wash. It has a southwest exposure and as such, has the chaparral and loose rock typical of this exposure in Southern California. Once at the top, the trail levels out and begins to follow Vivian Creek in a cool, shaded valley.The difference from the first section is so stark that it makes the Vivian Creek watershed seem even more lush.

To High Creek

After following Vivian Creek for a couple of kilometers, the trail leaves the stream and begins to climb over a ridge to the next watershed, High Creek. There are now enormous pine trees and rock formations that are reminiscent of hiking in Yosemite or Kings Canyon in the Sierra Nevadas. Adding to our enjoyment, the temperatures rose during the day but we also increased our elevation at a rate that kept the temperatures consistently cool and pleasant.

High Creek

High Creek is a beautiful camp site and the final place to find water before the summit. It is our recommendation that anyone leaving this spot for the top should have a minimum of three liters of water. We were in good shape so we continued upward and began the climb to the ridge that accesses the summit.

The Ridge

Some of the first great views of the day start at the beginning of this ridge. The trees approaching the ridge began to thin until the ridge itself, where the vegetation became low and eventually disappeared entirely as we crossed above the treeline. The ridge was one of the steeper sections of the climb, but with the summit approaching, our energy made it easier to summon the strength. The air was noticeably thinner at this point as well. At the top of the ridge, we made the right turn toward the summit, clearly visible in the distance.

The Summit

The summit is one of the best views from any mountain top. It is a 360 degree panorama of Southern California that’s hard to find anywhere else.

We were fortunate to be among the first to arrive for the day and had the summit mostly to ourselves for the first few minutes. That changed as large groups arrived behind us, but the view more than made up for the relative crowds.

Halfway there

Any hike of this length needs a warning that the summit is only ‘halfway there.’ Mt San Gorgonio by Vivian Creek is a very long day, and while every hiker is energized by standing on the top, the very long walk down is the most dangerous and difficult part of the day. We were exhausted and sore by the time we reached the bottom of the The Wall as it entered the rocky wash.

This is an excellent hike, but shouldn’t be done in one day unless you have experience hiking such distances and elevations.

Trail particulars

Keep in mind this is the second most popular trail for reaching the summit of Mt San Gorgonio. It can be busy with day hikers, overnight backpackers, and even casual hikers walking up from the picnic area. Camping on the trail can be accomplished in the following areas:

  • Vivian Creek at 2 km (1.2 miles ) and 2164 m  (7100 ft). This is a very wooded camp.
  • Halfway Camp at 5 km (3 miles) and 2469 m (8100 ft). This is also a wooded campsite.
  • High Creek at 8.5 km (5.3 miles) and 2804 m (9200 ft) and last water. High Creek is in tall pines but less wooded than the lower campsites.

Click here to download the GPX file from our hike (right click and choose ‘save as’):

For the latest in trail conditions, including water availability, check with the San Gorgonio Wilderness Association.

Passes and getting to the trailhead

Before you start, you’ll need to either plan ahead for a day or overnight permit (permits are required for day hiking or overnight camping). Passes can be faxed back to you, mailed (if you have 3-7 days for deliver) or can be picked up in the office or in a small box by the door when the Mill Creek Work Site isn’t open. Their phone number is 909-382-2882 and their official site is found here.

Mt San Gorgonio’s Vivian Creek is one of the easier trailheads to reach. From the Mill Creek Work Site, continue to follow Highway 38 to Forest Falls Road. Turn right and follow Forest Falls until it ends at a picnic area (which is obviously a former campground). The trail starts immediately off the end of the parking lot and initially follows the left bank of the rocky stream bed that you’ve been following since turning on Forest Falls.

Part 2 of Hiking the Halemau’u Trail to the Paliku Campsite

Mar. 31 Camping, Haleakala Crater, Haleakala Crater, Hawaii, Hiking adventures, Maui, National Parks, Other adventures 10 comments

The following is a continuation of Hiking the Halemau’u Trail to the Paliku Campsite at Haleakala National Park.

One of the best parts of camping is sleeping when the sun sets and waking when it rises. We were awake a little after 5am with the pleasure of enormous slugs crawling on the tent’s screen. It rained extremely hard during the night, leaving us wondering if there would be a flash flood on the hillside where we were camped. Fortunately, by the light of day the rain slowed down to a drizzle.

We made our breakfast and debated the best way to pack up our soaked tent. We finally decided that the best approach wasn’t to wait for the rain to stop, but to move as quickly as possible once we emerged. We packed the backpacks first so that the tent breakdown was as simple as dropping the poles, pulling the stakes and rolling up the rest.

Rainbows

We were essentially dry as we left the campsite but our pants were quickly soaked as we walked through light rain and wet vegetation. It was warm enough for us to be comfortable and we were delighted with rainbows over our trail as we hiked back toward the Haleakala Crater.

Even though we’d walked this route, by morning and in a different light, it was like a new adventure. We stopped for an early lunch at the first lava flow just as we left the rain behind, and were soon hiking once again through the lunar landscape of the Haleakala Crater. Our trip on day two was significantly more uphill and we could feel it.

Once across the Crater, we once again entered the rainy area that gradually became more green and less desolate. The final nearly 7 km (4.2 miles) was entirely uphill but a great way to finish such an amazing hike. The Halemau’u Trail is an excellent adventure for those who come prepared for the many climates of this unique landscape.

Hiking the Halemauu Trail to the Paliku Campsite at Haleakala National Park

Mar. 25 Haleakala Crater, Haleakala Crater, Hawaii, Hiking adventures, Maui, Peaks 4 comments

The Halemauu Trail to the Paliku Wilderness Campsite is not a two-day hike for the casual hiker. Fortunately, we’re no casual hikers and were well-prepared for the altitude, wet, cold and 32.8 km (20.4 miles) round trip. We paid our $10 to enter the park for three days, and made our way to the Haleakala National Park Visitors Center to get our free permits and to watch the mandatory video, “Leave No Trace.”  We were skeptical about having to learn again about the philosophy we already practice, but it turned out to be a very good video that every national park should have.

Halemauu Trail

The Halemau’u Trail starts at 2435 m (7,990 ft) on the main road through the park. By the time we grabbed our gear and left our car at the parking lot, we were enveloped in a mist that brought the kind of rain that only happens as clouds try to push over 3,055 m (10,023 ft) Haleakala shield volcano. It is so large that it takes up 75% of the land area of Maui and dictates the weather for most of the island.

The trail leaves the parking lot as a fairly straight path that passes through scrub before beginning a significant descent of the West Crater Wall to the Ko’olau Gap at the floor of the Haleakala Crater. The trail in places is cut from sheer lava rock cliffs and represents an enormous amount of effort on the part of the National Park Service. Each turn that faced toward the sea brought rainy mist, and each turn away brought relief from the wet.

The descent section lasted nearly three miles and left us ready to hike on more level ground. We’ve always found going down to be tougher on our bodies and more risky than climbing even steep trails. Add wet rocks and loose gravel and you have a recipe for injury.

Lunch

Once off the cliff trail, we found an excellent place to have lunch just inside a gate that was constructed to keep feral goats out of the park and away from the silversword, a plant unique to Haleakala National Park. We made ramen noodles and brewed up tea as we rested our legs and enjoyed taking off our packs for a bit.

Soon after eating, we started once again down the trail and soon entered an area of lava flows that had remarkable formations that made the landscape appear apocalyptic. There were patches of pahoehoe (smooth, sometimes ropey-looking lava) and a’a, the jagged lava that is nearly impossible to walk across, leading to jokes that a’a is the sound you make when you try. At one point, we found lava chutes that still bore the evidence of lava flowing from underground even centuries after the last eruption.

Soon after the lava flow section, we entered an area that could best be called desert. We were fortunate that it rained recently and the footing was better than usual. Still, we felt our energy slipping away on the soft trail. This section didn’t last very long and we were soon back on hardpack trail.

Lunar

The landscape of the center section of our hike could best be described as lunar. We made our way around several cinder cones that looked like they could have erupted just recently, though we knew that not to be true. Lacking water in the rain shadow of the Crater’s walls, erosion takes place very slowly without vegetation to help break down the rock. In fact, one of the only plants is the silversword, unique to this location and possibly one of the hardiest plants on the planet.

Leaving the Crater floor meant a return of vegetation, but also of rain. We also reentered an enormous lava flow that managed to wind its way through man-made and natural pathways. The mist became closer as we descended and soon we were again enveloped in the light rain of a cloud.

Two hours after finding ourselves back in rain, we arrived at Paliku Campsite.

Paliku Campsite

At 6,380 feet (1,945m), Paliku is located on the east end of a beautiful valley at the base of a rain forest cliff.  We were very happy to arrive and quickly looked for a campsite. Unfortunately, just as we began to unpack, the rain started coming down very hard and the inside of our mostly-screen tent was soaked before we could cover it with the rainfly. Jeanne spent the next several minutes drying the tent floor as best she could, but the damage was done and we would have a wet tent for the the night. We spent the next two hours eating salami, our dried mangos and sunflower seeds. Darkness arrived at 7pm, and we were fast asleep minutes later.

Up next: Part 2 of Hiking the Halemau’u Trail to the Paliku Campsite at Haleakala National Park

San Gabriel peak in March 2012

Mar. 10 Hiking adventures, Peaks, San Gabriel Peak, San Gabriels, Southern California 2 comments

Another weekend and another chance to bag a peak in the San Gabriel Mountains near our home in Pasadena. This is one of the more popular hikes in Los Angeles, as it turns out.

San Gabriel Peak was once thought the highest in the area close to Pasadena at 1878 m (6,161 ft) but is now considered the second highest after Strawberry Peak at 1879 m (6,164 ft). It was named for the Spanish mission that dominated the valley to the west and also lies at the head of Eaton Canyon, the site of many of our hikes. Eaton Canyon is the watershed for Mt Wilson, San Gabriel Peak and Mt Markham and has year-round water flow, regardless of rainfall.

To get to the trail, we took the Angeles Crest Highway (Rt 2) from La Canada to Red Box Road, the narrow, windy road to the buildings and antennas atop Mt Wilson. About halfway along the road, we parked at the trailhead.The lot was fairly full, not surprising for a beautiful March Saturday.

The tunnel

We were somewhat surprised (I guess we could have researched) that we were at the other end of the very familiar Mt Lowe Fire Road, once the site of the Mt Lowe Railway. It was such a well-developed road, in fact, that it even has a tunnel through a particularly vertical section of rock at the very head of Eaton Canyon. There aren’t many fire roads with tunnels in this area. We walked for a while with a Forest Service employee who was just taking down the signs from the 2010 Station Fire closure.

A few minutes from the other end of the tunnel, we came to a trail junction that offered three alternatives. To the left, a small trail that would take us to Mt Markham and Mt Lowe, continuing forward on the Mt Lowe Fire Road toward Pasadena, and to the right, which was our path to Mt Disappointment and San Gabriel Peak.

San Gabriel Peak Trail

This section of the trail was much narrower and threaded its way along the steep flanks of San Gabriel Peak itself. The Station Fire had done enormous damage here and there were few large plants that weren’t scorched. The renewed growth was remarkable, however and there was no shortage of vegetation starting over where a generation had been wiped out.

We reached another saddle where we could continue straight ahead toward Mt Disappointment and its communication towers (not interesting) or to the right, our choice, toward San Gabriel Peak.

Poodle-dog bush

The trail became steeper and began to switchback its way up the mountain. For the first time, we were very aware of the strangely-named poodle-dog bush, a plant similar to poison oak that doesn’t make its effects known for 24-36 hours after touching it. We were just as concerned about the dogs touching it and then spreading it to us as we were paranoid about our own movements. We haven’t experienced its effects and we didn’t want to find out.

Just before the peak, we found both snow and pine forest, which was a refreshing site after seeing so much fire damage, rock and little shade. The ground was actually muddy in places and it was pleasantly cool in the shade of the conifers. It was a very short time before we were standing on the peak.

The summit was one of more distinct we’ve climbed, with the highest spot being a US Geological Survey benchmark and an actual bench that was occupied by groups the whole time we spent at the top. We made our way down after talking with several people, including a gentleman who just starting blogging about his own hikes in the Angeles National Forest.

The view from the summit was outstanding, with Mt Markham, Mt Lowe and Brown Mountain to the west, Mt Wilson to the south, and Strawberry Peak and Twin Peaks to the east.

Heading down

We moved quickly on the way down, as always, and were back at the Mt Lowe Fire Road in thirty minutes. We debated eating our lunch but didn’t find a spot to sit, so chose to press on to the car.

San Gabriel Peak requires a longer drive to the trailhead than most of our peaks, similar to Mt Baden-Powell, so it doesn’t have some of the appeal that local hikes have in the LA Basin. We realized after looking down on Mt Lowe that we were close enough to reach San Gabriel Peak in either a very long day hike or a rigorous two-day hike from the Sunset Ridge trailhead in Altadena. This may be a great hike for another time.

Mt Lowe Summit in February 2012

Feb. 11 Hiking adventures, Mt Lowe, Mt Lowe, Peaks, San Gabriels, Southern California 1 comment

We love to find new hikes in Los Angeles, and this time we made a late decision to hike Mount Lowe, a 1,708 m (5,603) peak just north of the more-famous Mount Wilson and stepped onto the Sunset Ridge Trail at 2pm. The sky was ominous but the forecast called for clouds and not rain, so off we went…without our waterproof jackets and only Jeanne with gloves and a hat. For people who try to be prepared for anything, we were prepared for little this time.

We knew the first part of the trail very well, as we’ve hiked as far as Mount Lowe Trail Camp several times. It is an excellent picnic destination in the Summer. Each time we’ve had a reason not to press on to the Summit, but this time we were determined to make it. We very quickly made our way through the paved section, past the areas left black by the Station Fire, the trees denuded of their bark by the ferocious windstorm two months ago. We passed the Cape of Good Hope, a curious name for the flat saddle just before the pavement ends. We continued past Circle Bridge, the turnoff for Dawn Mine, and the photogenic Granite Gate. We were moving very quickly and the dogs were in fine form.

Colder, wetter

As we completed switchback after switchback, the temperatures grew colder and we soon found ourselves at the cloud level, with mist blowing past as we hiked. Just as we reached the rocky sections where the trial turns away from Millard Canyon, it began to rain.

For only a few minutes, we were pelted with enormous drops before it changed to ice that was large enough to hurt as it struck our arms and heads. We found shelter under a rocky ledge for a few minutes while we polled the team about turning around or continuing. The dogs were both ready to go, and Gwenn even made a noise that could have been a doggie ‘yes’. We set off again quickly, aware that daylight was in limited supply.

We reached unexplored territory at Trail Camp and followed the signs for the East Mount Lowe Trail.

The summit

After completing nearly a 360 degree spiraling single track around the mountain, we finally reached the top of Mt. Lowe. To the south was Mount Wilson with its enormous white observatory and absurd number of antennas of all types. To the east we could see sunny skies and snowy mountains toward the High Desert. There was even a bench at the top with ruins of hitching posts and a shelter.

Our hands were so cold that we could barely open the bag and use the camera. It was a record short amount of time enjoying the view before we headed quickly back down the slippery trail. Without our waterproof layer, we were wet, very cold and losing sunlight very quickly. Finding the single track trail and navigating the snow-covered rocks needed to be done with as much light as possible.

Fast descent

Other than a brief stop to take a photo with Inspiration Point in the background, we walked non-stop and very fast to the car, arriving well after dark (we did remember our headlamps) but with a great view of the lights of Pasadena and Los Angeles along the way. While the air is always warmer as you go lower, it was also dark by that point and much colder than when we started.

We loaded up the dogs and drove home in a hurry for a hot bath and dinner. It was exhausting but great to have another summit under our belts. It was also a great reminder of the importance of going through a quick checklist and taking more than you actually expect to use for the conditions. We made it and felt great about the summit, but also feel a bit sheepish for the unnecessary suffering and risk.

Reaching the trailhead

To get to the Sunset Ridge Trail access to Mt Lowe, go north on Lake Avenue until it makes a 90 degree left turn and becomes Alta Loma Drive in Altadena. Stay on Alta Loma until you reach a flashing red signal and make that right on Cheney Trail. Follow Cheney Trail until you see the eight or so parking spots on the right side of the road, about halfway to Millard Canyon Campground from the first switchbacks. Photo of the trailhead here.

Other resources:

Mt Shuksan, Washington on Labor Day Weekend 2011

Sep. 06 Hiking adventures, Mt Shuksan, Pacific Northwest, Peaks 4 comments

Mt Shuksan is often referred to as the classic Cascade Range Peak. At 2783 m (9,131 ft), it is lower than the iconic Mt Baker, but has a photogenic peak known as Summit Pyramid and is draped with the Sulphide, Price, White Salmon, Crystal, Nooksack, Curtis and Hanging Glaciers that make it a  tempting target for climbers. Due to its popularity, there are no less than 14 routes that lead up to the summit. Our Seattle-based friend, Joel Meyers, suggested Shuksan by the Sulphide Glacier Route on one of our climbs of Mt Whitney and we were ready to take it on.

Heading north

We flew to Seattle on Friday evening and were shopping for our first mountaineering boots at Feathered Friends the same day. We had done our homework on the best “double plastic” boots to buy for our October climb of Mera Peak, Nepal and knew that Shuksan was the perfect opportunity to test them out and break them in before going to 6,476 m (21,247 ft) in six short weeks. It is also nearly impossible to find these types of boots in Southern California since it is built for high altitude climbs 6-7,000 m (19,685 to 22,966 ft). The classic mountaineering boot has a removable inner boot that allows the climber to keep the soft liner on their feet while sleeping to avoid putting on very cold boots first thing in the morning. This is a critical point when the outside temperatures can be -29 Celsius (-20 degrees F) and starting with cold feet can lead to significant problems, including loss of toes from frostbite.

We left mid-morning for the Shannon Ridge Trailhead, driving north from Seattle before heading east to the National Park Office in Sedro-Woolley to pick up permits. We were the last group to secure overnight permits for the upper bivouac, the highest point where camping is allowed on the mountain. We grabbed a quick Subway sandwich around the corner and were soon on the final segment of our drive.

To the trailhead

Getting to the trailhead involved contenting east from Sedro-Woolley until a turnoff for Baker Lake. We drove along the lake until the road became gravel and wound higher into the forest before the turnoff for Shannon Ridge. It was just a few miles on the final road before we came to a parking lot at the road’s conclusion. The trail itself was a former logging road that continued ahead along the side of Shannon Creek.

Shannon Ridge Trail

The first section of the trail was the approach to the Ridge itself. The trail had not been maintained well, and there were several places where large trees and other debris blocked the way and various detours needed to be figured out. This was a much easier problem on the way up, as the slope could be figured out fairly easily, but this proved to be much harder on the way down, where a wrong turn could put us on the wrong side of a mountain. With multiple people in our party, we were able to each take a direction and shout out when we figured out which was the best way to regain the trail. A solo climber could easily get lost without the benefit of this approach.

When we finally broke out of the the dense forest onto Shannon Ridge, the view of Mt  Baker was remarkable. The amount of snow was remarkable, even knowing that this had been a late Spring and a wet summer. It was great to be free of the old growth woods and the slow, lazy flies that pestered us every time we slowed down. The trail was now clear though muddy in many places and we found our first snow at 1280 m (4200 ft). Unlike Southern California, where the sun is much more intense, the snowpack was relatively firm and easy to cross.

The notch

The trail changed significantly once we finished Shannon Ridge and crossed through a notch that took us around to the eastern face of Shuksan. From this point onward we were walking on a combination of rock and snow that was firm and easy going as we traversed around to a point below the Sulphide Glacier. The temperatures dropped significantly as well as we left the strong afternoon sunshine that isn’t so typical of this part of the world.

Sulphide Glacier

Reaching the Sulphide Glacier was a great day’s achievement. The sun was high enough to create a brilliant vista of Summit Pyramid and the extensive crevasses of Sulphide and Crystal Glaciers. We were able to talk to the teams returning from the summit as they arrived and were surprised to hear that they had spent 11 hours to get up and back to Lower Bivy, our campsite. Most were part of guided groups that were in some stage of a many-day trip in the Cascades.

Onward and upward

We were up at 5am the next morning to take our turn on the trail. It was cold but hadn’t frozen overnight, to our surprise. We put down as many calories as time would allow and we were ready to walk by 6:30 am. Though there were several tents near ours, we were the only ones up and moving that early and and appeared to be the first to set out from Lower Bivy.

Our first decision was to angle away from the distant peak to avoid the crevasses that were part of the shortest distance to get there. We roped up from the beginning as we could see the occasional crevasse even on the more level slopes.

After a quick discussion of our order on the rope, our means of communication, and a refresher on how to self-arrest in the event of a fall, we started toward Summit Pyramid in the distance. The snow was crisp and with our crampons we were able to make very fast progress around the crevasses and start the very long traverse.

The long traverse

Getting to the Summit Pyramid was difficult as much as it was a long walk with the challenge of maintaining our separation, not stepping on the rope, and carefully placing our crampons to avoid any mental lapse that would put spiky points into our legs. Looking back at the areas we had crossed, the patterns in the snow were beautiful and a reminder of the wonder of untouched nature. We were also now above most of the nearby peaks, including the Pickett Range, and had a clear view to a very far-off Mt. Ranier.

Summit Pyramid

We found our way to the base of Summit Pyramid, the final stretch of the climb. The snow gave way to rock, and it was apparent quickly that we needed to have a longer rope than the one we used for safety across the Glacier. A quick check of the GPS revealed that we had reached 2621 m (8,600 ft) at the base of a Class 3 to 4 rock scramble that we didn’t feel comfortable about tackling without a means to rappel back down when finished.

Heading down

Going down was a matter of following the same track back to our campsite, but with the benefit of several long glissades on the steeper sections. There’s something of a child in all of us once we start sliding down the snow, and it rarely happens without laughter…this time was no different. Beyond fun, the energy we saved was important as we still needed to eat, break down our camp, and walk the complete trail back to the parking lot far below.

Mt Shuksan is an excellent adventure and our mountaineering boots were given a live test in a way that makes our October climb of Mera Peak, Nepal less risky for equipment problems. We were also able to give our legs an excellent workout even thought the altitude isn’t comparable to what we’ll have in the Himalayas. This is a great climb for getting solid practice on glaciers.

Mt Whitney by the Main Trail on July 4th, 2009

Aug. 25 Eastern Sierras, Hiking adventures, Mt Whitney, Peaks, Sierra Nevadas 3 comments

I’ve heard it said that no Californian can call themselves a climber without reaching the summit of the highest peak in the Lower forty-eight. Mt Whitney, at 4421 m (14,505 ft), is not the most difficult peak to reach, but it is a long, challenging trail to reach the summit. We joined a group that included a former coworker and two of his friends for a one-day hike planned for the Forth of July, 2009. Most importantly, they had a permit reserved, which is one of the challenges with this mountain’s restricted lottery system.

We successfully climbed Mt Whitney the year before, in September 2008, by the same route but in two days rather than one. Knowing how much more weight is required to camp overnight (which includes a bear bin, per the park rangers), we were eager to see how much faster and lighter we could travel by making a one-day attempt. This turned out to be the way to go.

Whitney Portal

We met up with the rest of the group on July 3rd at their campsite at Whitney Portal. The Portal is the jumping off point for the one of the most popular trails in the US and serves as the staging point, the parking lot and even has a restaurant and store that carries many of the last-minute items you may need for the hike. The Portal Store even operates the message board and web cameras that point at the peak. This is a great resource.

Early start

To complete this hike in one day requires well before sunrise and we chose to to step onto the trail at 3:30am. It was dark but not very cold as we weighed our packs at the trailhead, just below the Portal Store. It was fantastic to have 7 kg (15 lb) packs rather than the previous year’s 21 kg (47 lb). It didn’t escape me that I was celebrating our Independence Day by climbing with a group entirely made up of French.

Sunrise on the trail

There’s something about hiking through the dawn of a new day that makes the distance fly by. Every time we’ve done this, we’re always very surprised on the way down at the distance we covered. Maybe we’re not awake enough to realize, but we remember enjoying it nonetheless. The first section is walking an extensive set of switchbacks that lead up to the first allowed camping site, Outpost Camp at 6.1 km (3.8 miles) and 3,159 m (10,365 ft). For us, this is too low to call it a full first day, and on our first trip camped at the second site, Consultation Lake/Trail Camp, which is 10.1 km (6.3 miles) from the Portal, at 3700 m (12,000 ft.), and a better place to overnight and keep the next day’s hike to a ‘short’ 26.7 km (16.7 miles). Since we were ‘day hiking’ Mt Whitney, we passed through these two sites relatively early in the day.

To Trail Crest

The gritty part of climbing Mt Whitney, besides distance and altitude, is getting from Trail Camp to Trail Crest at 4200 m (13,777 ft), which seems to be not so far below the summit, but there’s something a little misleading about the last section of the trail…it goes down and up, so the actual vertical distance hiked to Mt Whitney’s summit is higher than the difference between the summit and the Portal.

The gritty part about getting to Trail Crest lies in climbing up the “99 Switchbacks”, but how many there actually are depends on when you start counting and what constitutes a switchback. We counted 107 the year prior, and others have adamantly claimed 97. I guess 99 is just a great number to remember and recite. You know you’ve bested the switchbacks when you reach the cable that helps hikers cross an otherwise treacherous slab area just below Trail Crest. When we arrived at that point on the morning of July 4th, there was considerable snow forming a large cornice that made crossing a matter of leaning away from the hill while gripping the cable, with nothing but open drop below us. We saw several people turn back rather than cross that spot.

To the summit

After a break at Trail Crest, we headed north toward the summit, soon passing where the John Muir Trail meets the Whitney Main Trail. There were significant patches of snow along this portion of the trail, and more than once we post-holed into a gap between rocks that had been hidden by a thin layer of snow. Everyone was breathing hard due to the altitude, but our progress was very steady as we passed by the ‘needles’ that line the right side of the trail before the summit. Each one was like a rabbit ear sticking up from the mountain and the trail allowed us a view of the Owens Valley to the east as we passed between each. Having climbed after the snow melted last time, I knew we were following a very direct line rather than the normal ups, downs, lefts and rights of the established trail.

The summit

Mt Whitney’s summit comes after crossing a rough, rocky section of trail that has gentle switchbacks toward a hut that appears in the distance about ten minutes before the end. At this point, we were tired but extremely happy to have made it in a single day. We signed the register along the wall of the shelter and found a sign that someone had created for their summit photograph, so took advantage and had our friends take pictures as we held it.

Resting

Anyone who has hiked much will tell you that getting to the top isn’t the most challenging part of climbing mountains.  Getting down is where the accidents happen and where most of the pain occurs. Knowing this, we laid down on the rocks to take a break for a while rather than starting down right away. It was cold but sunny, and with our jackets on, tucked into the enormous rocks that form the summit, we were soon napping comfortably at the highest point in California. If you make it this far, plan to do the same, as it feels great to take a break and will certainly help make the return trip safer. After thirty minutes or so, we left our comfortable refuge and headed down. The trip down was long but uneventful. Another adventure.

The facts

This is not an easy trail and no one should attempt this hike without doing conditioning beforehand. Good shoes are also in order, as the distance will do damage to unprotected feet and ankles. We went on a picture-perfect day, but you should always know the forecast before setting out and be willing to change plans if there is a forecast for snow (early or late season) or for thunderstorms. We’ve been told by Park Rangers that one of the most dangerous aspects of climbing Whitney in the Summer is lightening, which can kill a person on the unprotected, above-the-treeline parts of the trail.

Mt Baden Powell via Vincent Gap on August 20, 2011

Aug. 20 Dog fun, Hiking adventures, Mt Baden Powell, Peaks, San Gabriels, Southern California 2 comments

Undoubtedly one of the best peak climbs in Southern California. Mt Baden Powell is a very prominent, pyramid-shaped peak that can be approached from several points. We chose to hike from the Vincent Gap trailhead, which is found a few miles north of the Grassy Hollow Visitors Center on the Angeles Crest Highway (Route 2). The nearest gas or shopping is found in Wrightwood, near the Mountain High Ski Resort, further south from Grassy Hollow. The peak is named for Lord Baden Powell, a British general and founder of the modern scouting movement. There is a cement monument on the peak with a brass plaque dedicated to his achievements, which were more significant than climbing the mountain named for him.

Vincent Gap

The trailhead was marked as Vincent Gap on our map and on the web, but the signpost on the Angeles Crest Highway said “Vincent Gulch.” It turned out to be one and the same. The start was clearly marked and there was ample parking on either side of the highway. There was a choice of trails at the northwest corner of the parking lot on the west side of the highway, and the trail you want is the one that goes directly ahead of you, not the one to the left.

The trail

The hike started in great pine forest cover and only after a few minutes, had great views of the Mojave Desert to the northeast. There were many switchbacks (rumor has it at 47) ahead before the trail eventually broke out onto a ridge that approached the summit from the east. The trail showed some signs of the heavy snowpack from the winter, as there were places where small rock avalanches narrowed the trail, but in general, it was great footing everywhere.

The ridge

Just after the ridge started and below the summit, the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) broke off to the northwest. From here, you could continue to the summit or head along the PCT toward Dawson Saddle 4 km (2.5 miles), Windy Gap 8.3 km (5.2 miles) or Islip Saddle 11.5 km (7.2 miles). To the south, the ridge dropped sharply down into a deep canyon that we were told was Mine Gulch. The prominence of Mt Baden Powell was even more obvious from this vantage point.

What was most impressive, however, was the incredible view of Mt Baldy (Mt San Antonio) to the south. We’ve climbed Mt Baldy from the Baldy ski lifts and it was great to think we’d been there already, looking to where we were today. We could also see the upper reaches of the East Fork of the San Gabriel River, where we’ve hiked to the Bridge to Nowhere and have ridden motorcycles in the OHV area just above the highest dam. In the far distance, we could just make out San Gorgonio Mountain 3709 m (11,499 ft), the highest peak in Southern California and a tough climb that we’ve vowed to accomplish in the coming months.

The peak

The views from the top of Mt Baden Powell were truly fantastic. It is a true 360 degree panorama of desert to the east, mountains to the north and south, and the many antennas of Mt Wilson to the east. We could see where Los Angeles should have been but it was shrouded in summer haze. The weather couldn’t have been more perfect at the peak with a gentle breeze, cool but not cold temperatures, and a brilliantly sunny sky from horizon to horizon. We spent time talking with people enjoying like we were, and then headed back down the mountain.

Pee Pee Razzi

It was thrilling to see a glider pass so close by the mountain that we could see the pilot’s face. The second time it passed, we realized that both incidents coincided with Jeanne taking a bio break nearby, leading us to believe the glider’s timing was not accidental and he was probably trying to take pictures. We decided the pilot was part of the pee-pee-razzi. It seemed funny in the moment. Before you think we had a unique experience, check out Dan Simpson’s account of his Mt Baden Powell hike where he talks about gliders coming out of nowhere and circling the peak closely enough to wave at the pilots.

Spit happens

When Gwenn hikes, she does so with all of the vigor and energy that she does everything, causing her to sometimes develop foam around her mouth. She also loves to ‘greet’ other dogs we meet on the trail and today, she managed to leave a significant amount of saliva on the other dog. The owner seemed to take it in stride, so I didn’t feel too glib telling him, “spit happens.” It also seemed very funny in the moment.

The facts

This is truly great hike on a single track trail that is very well maintained. There was no poison oak to be found, but we were warned about a “poodle dog bush” that supposedly has similar effects. The trail is only 12.8 km (8 miles) but it covers a healthy 904 m (2803 ft.) and at a higher altitude than you’ll find on the western side of the San Gabriels with the exception of Mt Baldy. Because we were on the northeast slopes, there was less sun, less dryness, and far more trees. Most of the hike was in the shade, in fact. Remember to bring plenty of water if you choose to take this track, as there is none at the trailhead and only one spring along the way that we didn’t stop to verify.

Links

You can find good writeups of the hike on Dan Simpson’s page (above), The Sierra Club Hundred Peaks Section, LocalHikes.com, and ModernHiker.com, and the FootHillFlyers.org