Category: Sierra Nevadas

Mt Whitney by the Main Trail on July 4th, 2009

Aug. 25 Eastern Sierras, Hiking adventures, Mt Whitney, Peaks, Sierra Nevadas 3 comments

I’ve heard it said that no Californian can call themselves a climber without reaching the summit of the highest peak in the Lower forty-eight. Mt Whitney, at 4421 m (14,505 ft), is not the most difficult peak to reach, but it is a long, challenging trail to reach the summit. We joined a group that included a former coworker and two of his friends for a one-day hike planned for the Forth of July, 2009. Most importantly, they had a permit reserved, which is one of the challenges with this mountain’s restricted lottery system.

We successfully climbed Mt Whitney the year before, in September 2008, by the same route but in two days rather than one. Knowing how much more weight is required to camp overnight (which includes a bear bin, per the park rangers), we were eager to see how much faster and lighter we could travel by making a one-day attempt. This turned out to be the way to go.

Whitney Portal

We met up with the rest of the group on July 3rd at their campsite at Whitney Portal. The Portal is the jumping off point for the one of the most popular trails in the US and serves as the staging point, the parking lot and even has a restaurant and store that carries many of the last-minute items you may need for the hike. The Portal Store even operates the message board and web cameras that point at the peak. This is a great resource.

Early start

To complete this hike in one day requires well before sunrise and we chose to to step onto the trail at 3:30am. It was dark but not very cold as we weighed our packs at the trailhead, just below the Portal Store. It was fantastic to have 7 kg (15 lb) packs rather than the previous year’s 21 kg (47 lb). It didn’t escape me that I was celebrating our Independence Day by climbing with a group entirely made up of French.

Sunrise on the trail

There’s something about hiking through the dawn of a new day that makes the distance fly by. Every time we’ve done this, we’re always very surprised on the way down at the distance we covered. Maybe we’re not awake enough to realize, but we remember enjoying it nonetheless. The first section is walking an extensive set of switchbacks that lead up to the first allowed camping site, Outpost Camp at 6.1 km (3.8 miles) and 3,159 m (10,365 ft). For us, this is too low to call it a full first day, and on our first trip camped at the second site, Consultation Lake/Trail Camp, which is 10.1 km (6.3 miles) from the Portal, at 3700 m (12,000 ft.), and a better place to overnight and keep the next day’s hike to a ‘short’ 26.7 km (16.7 miles). Since we were ‘day hiking’ Mt Whitney, we passed through these two sites relatively early in the day.

To Trail Crest

The gritty part of climbing Mt Whitney, besides distance and altitude, is getting from Trail Camp to Trail Crest at 4200 m (13,777 ft), which seems to be not so far below the summit, but there’s something a little misleading about the last section of the trail…it goes down and up, so the actual vertical distance hiked to Mt Whitney’s summit is higher than the difference between the summit and the Portal.

The gritty part about getting to Trail Crest lies in climbing up the “99 Switchbacks”, but how many there actually are depends on when you start counting and what constitutes a switchback. We counted 107 the year prior, and others have adamantly claimed 97. I guess 99 is just a great number to remember and recite. You know you’ve bested the switchbacks when you reach the cable that helps hikers cross an otherwise treacherous slab area just below Trail Crest. When we arrived at that point on the morning of July 4th, there was considerable snow forming a large cornice that made crossing a matter of leaning away from the hill while gripping the cable, with nothing but open drop below us. We saw several people turn back rather than cross that spot.

To the summit

After a break at Trail Crest, we headed north toward the summit, soon passing where the John Muir Trail meets the Whitney Main Trail. There were significant patches of snow along this portion of the trail, and more than once we post-holed into a gap between rocks that had been hidden by a thin layer of snow. Everyone was breathing hard due to the altitude, but our progress was very steady as we passed by the ‘needles’ that line the right side of the trail before the summit. Each one was like a rabbit ear sticking up from the mountain and the trail allowed us a view of the Owens Valley to the east as we passed between each. Having climbed after the snow melted last time, I knew we were following a very direct line rather than the normal ups, downs, lefts and rights of the established trail.

The summit

Mt Whitney’s summit comes after crossing a rough, rocky section of trail that has gentle switchbacks toward a hut that appears in the distance about ten minutes before the end. At this point, we were tired but extremely happy to have made it in a single day. We signed the register along the wall of the shelter and found a sign that someone had created for their summit photograph, so took advantage and had our friends take pictures as we held it.

Resting

Anyone who has hiked much will tell you that getting to the top isn’t the most challenging part of climbing mountains.  Getting down is where the accidents happen and where most of the pain occurs. Knowing this, we laid down on the rocks to take a break for a while rather than starting down right away. It was cold but sunny, and with our jackets on, tucked into the enormous rocks that form the summit, we were soon napping comfortably at the highest point in California. If you make it this far, plan to do the same, as it feels great to take a break and will certainly help make the return trip safer. After thirty minutes or so, we left our comfortable refuge and headed down. The trip down was long but uneventful. Another adventure.

The facts

This is not an easy trail and no one should attempt this hike without doing conditioning beforehand. Good shoes are also in order, as the distance will do damage to unprotected feet and ankles. We went on a picture-perfect day, but you should always know the forecast before setting out and be willing to change plans if there is a forecast for snow (early or late season) or for thunderstorms. We’ve been told by Park Rangers that one of the most dangerous aspects of climbing Whitney in the Summer is lightening, which can kill a person on the unprotected, above-the-treeline parts of the trail.

Four perfect days in Kings Canyon – Roads End to Lower Tent Meadows

Aug. 11 Hiking adventures, Kings Canyon, Kings Canyon, National Parks, Sierra Nevadas 1 comment

This is a continuation of Four perfect days in Kings Canyon – Roads End to Sphinx Creek.

Day 4 – Roads End to Lower Tent Meadows

After hiking on at least partially the same trails the prior two days, we decided it would be good to take a new direction from Roads End…to the north. The Copper Creek trail starts in the same parking lot that we used for Mist Falls and Sphinx Creek, and heads north from the Canyon floor toward the lesser-known/accessible parts of Kings Canyon National Park. Taken far enough, it forms a loop that meets the John Muir Trail.

Hot and dry

The first section of the trail faces south and is continually in the sun during daylight hours, making the trail dry, dusty and nearly void of shade. To enjoy the trail means passing through this part early and quickly. Once on the north-facing wall of Copper Creek Canyon, shade trees are the norm and the trail becomes less sandy and much more comfortable. This hike is in a much broader canyon than the others and the views are less of glacier-scoured rock and more of alpine meadows.

As we passed the halfway point on our hike, we walked through several large meadows that were full of flowers as though it was April instead of August. Just like the day before, we needed to keep moving to avoid the various insects that stayed away as long as we hiked but quickly found us as soon as we stopped. We even ate our lunch of sandwiches, granola bars and oranges as we walked just to avoid the insect issue. We met only three lone hikers during the course of our four-hour hike, and each seemed tired and weary of walking. The last one we met seemed delirious and we suspected was dehydrated, as his water bottles hung empty from his pack, his speech was slurred, and he repeated himself several times as he told us his story. We tried to give him water but he refused our offers. Knowing he was near the end of the trail, we wished him well and moved on.

Returning to Roads End

The return to Roads End was uneventful and significantly faster than the steady uphill climb of the morning. We passed through the hot and dry section with significantly less discomfort on the way down, and were at The Beach and jumping off Muir Rock by early afternoon. This hike was the perfect way to spend the last full day of our trip, and was thankfully shorter than the tough climb the day before.

Closing out four perfect days

Kings Canyon is an excellent place to spend four or more days. It is within five hours of Los Angeles and is a world apart from the Eastern Sierras. Uncrowded, Kings Canyon is frequented mostly by families from other parts of California and serious hikers spending days or weeks on the trail. Its eastern part touches the John Muir Trail, the Pacific Crest Trail, making it a great place to enter or exit these much longer hikes. Beyond the great trails, Muir Rock and The Beach at Roads End are great places to relax and enjoy the South Fork Kings River. We highly recommend you enjoy it as much as we do.

Four perfect days in Kings Canyon – Roads End to Sphinx Creek

Aug. 10 Hiking adventures, Kings Canyon, Kings Canyon, National Parks, Sierra Nevadas 1 comment

This is a continuation of Four perfect days in Kings Canyon.

Day 3 – Roads End to Sphinx Creek

An early start allowed us to park at Roads End once again and to be on the Woods Creek Trail well before the hot part of the day. This trail was the very same one that took us to Mist Falls the day before except that we would take a right turn where the trail split at the junction of Woods Creek and Bubbs Creek. We had always wanted to hike the south side of the valley toward the formation known as The Sphinx.

Bubbs Creek Trail

After passing through the essentially flat first section, we met our intersection and started up the new watershed of Bubbs Creek. The trail crossed a sturdy bridge over Woods Creek and then a series of four bridges over various large and small streams before beginning a grueling switchback section that quickly took us well beyond the first valley. The effort that was put into building the trail up a nearly vertical rock face was obvious, as the switchbacks were built almost entirely as stone staircases with metal rods as reinforcement. Once above the switchbacks, the trail became less steep and followed the fast-flowing Bubbs Creek as it tumbled its way down a narrow valley.

Sphinx Creek Trail

The next fork we encountered was the jumping off point for the Rae Lakes Loop if we had continued straight up Bubbs Creek, or for Avalanche Pass, accessed by the right turn we made at the junction. This also represented the first place where camping was allowed (with a Wilderness Permit, available at Roads End), and was a particularly beautiful, shaded, insect-free place. There were bear bins on both sides of the river and a wide variety of flat places for tents to be pitched. As we were day hiking, we pressed onward up the third watershed of the day, Sphinx Creek itself.

By this point we could see the Sphinx rock formation directly above us and could also see the last remnants of Winter snows high above. We quickly left the protective shade of tall pine trees and once again began a series of switchbacks that took us quickly up into yet another, higher valley. Once above the rocky area, the trail once again was shaded by tall pines and we encountered some of the most serious insects we’d encountered on any hiking trail. The combination of a heavy winter snowpack, unusually swampy areas along the river, and a warm day brought out the flies and mosquitos. After spraying ourselves, we kept moving, noticing that we were far less pestered when moving than when stopping to solve the problem.

The turnaround

We made the decision to eat lunch where the trail crossed Sphinx Creek at 2772 m (8,595 ft.).  We had covered 11.8 km (7.1 miles) and climbed 2,440 m (7,564 ft.) over the course of four hours and felt we had achieved more than enough for one day. It was great to have a first-time experience on this set of trails and the views of the three different waterways and valleys were remarkable.

We weren’t able to reach the Sphinx formation itself, but we could see that we had reached the same elevation. Getting to the formation would have been an additional three hours and it was too late in the day for us to attempt it. We cooled our feet in the stream, ate our lunch, and then made our way back down. We ended the day, of course, by going to Muir Rock and The Beach, the perfect place to relax after a demanding hike.

Up next, Day 4 and the Copper Creek Trail to Tent Meadows.

Four perfect days in Kings Canyon

Aug. 09 Hiking adventures, Kings Canyon, Kings Canyon, National Parks, Sierra Nevadas 4 comments

Everyone knows Yosemite, at least by reputation, but far fewer people know the national park just to its south, Kings Canyon. It forms the northern part of Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Park, and even within this two-park system, Sequoia overshadows the other due to its world-famous, enormous trees. Adding to the obscurity, there is essentially one road into and out of Kings Canyon, California State Road 180, and it is a dead end. Most of Kings Canyon is wilderness and it attracts a more nature-loving and back country crowd than Yosemite.

For a great map of the two parks, go here.

Preparing

Many of the best camping sites in Kings Canyon are first-come-first-served and aren’t reservable. That makes this park less interesting to tourists who plan their vacations down to the hour…not the kind of people we want to hang with, anyway. We like Sheep Creek, near the Cedar Grove Ranger Station, for its great sites, tall pines that provide wonderful shade on a hot day, and proximity to the South Fork Kings River, the main waterway of the park. If this one fills up, the rangers open more sites in nearby campsites, so don’t worry too much. Our method is to arrive when the sites become available at 11am, and try to avoid Friday and Saturday arrivals, as you’ll be competing with more of the public. The sites are $18 per night, with a maximum of six people per site (though no one is counting too closely). There is a small convenience store in Cedar Grove only a half mile away that makes any last-minute shopping expensive but easy. One thing to remember…there is no reliable gas supply in Kings Canyon, so fill your tank in Squaw Valley on the way up from Fresno. Last piece of advice…no matter how much the map makes other routes into the Canyon look shorter, stay on Route 99 until the exit for Yosemite, then take the 180 exit shortly after. You’ll be very glad you did and won’t have sick passengers.

Day 1 – Easy access fun

The biggest single attraction for people camping in Kings Canyon (or staying at the Cedar Grove Lodge) is Muir Rock and “The Beach”. These two sites are adjacent to each other and are a very short trail (100 m) from the parking lot at Road’s End, which is, simply put, the end of the road that passes through the canyon. Generations of people have been jumping from the rock into the Kings River, and generations have urged the more timid to make the leap into the fast, cold current. Just below the rock, the water is crystal clear and deep enough for diving or the more typical feet-first leap. The Beach, just up river, is the perfect vantage point to watch the action.

Day 2 – Mist Falls

The hike that is required of anyone spending time in Kings Canyon is Mist Falls. It is a 8.1 km (4.9 miles) hike that starts in the same parking lot as The Beach and Muir Rock. While the distance many seem large to some, a great portion of the hike is on relatively flat ground and isn’t too challenging. The views approaching the Falls are well worth the hike and there is a large, flat area that provides a remarkable view of a rock formation to the west known as The Sphinx. Even without the Falls just a little further ahead, this view is one of the best in the Sierras. From this spot, the hike to Mist Falls is less than thirty minutes. The most important things to remember about this trip are that the first three miles can be hot later in the day so leave early and bring plenty of water and mosquito repellent. There is just one section on the trail where the annoying insects are laying in wait for unprotected hikers. Save your lunch for the Falls, and find a great spot that isn’t too close, as mist falls continually and you’ll want to keep your sandwiches dry.

Refreshing 

One of the best aspects of each hike we took from Roads End (up next, Days 3 and 4), is that Muir Rock and The Beach await the end of each adventure. Rather than getting into your car, take the short walk and wade or jump into the river to clean up and cool off. We were fortunate and had friends waiting with snacks and drinks to make the perfect end to our hikes.

Up next, Day 3 of  Four perfect days in Kings Canyon – Roads End to Sphinx Creek.

Mt Whitney by the Mountaineer’s Route, July 2011

Jul. 16 Eastern Sierras, Hiking adventures, Mt Whitney, Peaks, Sierra Nevadas 3 comments

Jeanne, our friend Craig and I made our second attempt on Mt Whitney’s (4421 m. 14,505 ft.) Mountaineer’s Route on June 13th and 14th, 2011.  The highest peak in the lower forty eight states, Mt. Whitney is typically accomplished as a very long hike of 22 miles from the Whitney Portal (2,250 m., 8,360 ft.) trailhead.  We’ve managed to complete the typical route twice…once as a two-day hike, camping at Consultation Lake, and once in a single day where we left at 4am and made it back to the trailhead at 7pm.  The single-day option  makes for a grueling day and I don’t recommend it to anyone who isn’t in good shape.

Starting up

The Mountaineer’s Route, on the other hand, isn’t nearly as long as the main trail, but is a very direct route up the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek.  It is only 7 miles in each direction, but the trail has boulders to navigate, fast streams to cross, a dangerous ledge that has claimed lives in the past (Ebersbacher Ledges) and in late Spring, plenty of snow.  Snow can be your best friend or your worst enemy, depending on how much there is and how firm it is.  Last year’s attempt on the Mountaineer’s Route ended in the final snow chute at 2pm, when it became obvious that the slow going had soaked up so much time that we had to turn around or be stuck on the mountain overnight.  This year’s plan was to camp just under halfway up the trail at Lower Boy Scout Lake, making it easier to reach the steep chute at a point in the day when the snow would be easy to cross.

Lower Boy Scout Lake

The first day passed quickly as we left Lone Pine at 12pm, left the trail head at 2pm and were at Lower Boy Scout Lake by 5pm.  It was a beautiful and warm evening and we could see the peak looming above us in the distance.  Little did we know that it was a little too sunny and too warm for that time of the evening, that high on the mountain.  Craig went to filter water from the lake, while Jeanne and I set up the tent and started dinner.  With a plan to start hiking by 6am, we were turned in and sleeping by 9pm.  Despite the altitude, which can make sleeping difficult, we slept well and woke up to a beautiful pre-dawn sky.  It looked like it would be a gorgeous day, and it didn’t feel as though the temperature had gone below freezing.

Summit day

Other than being conspicuously warm, Day 2 was off to a great start.  We had our oatmeal, eggs and bacon and set off on the snowfield just above our campsite.  The snow didn’t seem very firm but it wasn’t very soft, either, and we were very fresh.  As we climbed higher, however, the temperature began to rise and the snow grew softer and deeper.  There are a series of snowfields as the climb passes Upper Boy Scout Lake, goes over a ridge into the large bowl below the Summit, and then up a steep hill to Iceberg Lake.  It is from Iceberg Lake that the final push is made up the snow chute.  By the time we reached this point, we were ‘postholing’ in the snow, which refers to suddenly dropping into deep, soft snow rather than being able to walk normally on the surface.  Beyond tiring, postholing causes injuries to the lower leg as there are often rocks or tree branches hiding beneath the snow’s surface with empty space around them.

The chute

We reached the final chute that leads to the Summit at 10am, far earlier than the previous year.  What we found, however, were snow conditions that were significantly softer than the previous year.  Jeanne and I climbed one hundred meters or so before deciding that the conditions weren’t safe to continue.   Our intrepid friend, however, made the decision to go for the top and soon disappeared above us.

Waiting for Craig

We waited for Craig, first in the chute, until the combination of the sun and its reflection off the snow made waiting unbearable, and then down below where we could see his return.  We were concerned that he would run out of water, and began filling water bottles with snow and laying them in the sun to melt.  Three hours later, an exhausted Craig was spotted sliding down the chute.  We were significantly relieved to see him and he was just as happy to see that we had water for him, as he had run out.  It always amazes me how much climbing dehydrates the body and how snow, unmelted, doesn’t solve the problem.

Going down

With more time than last year, the descent should have been an easy one, but the snow was so soft that at times we dropped into holes to our armpits, and only our backpacks slowed the drop.  In the steepest sections, we could sit and slide down on the snow to save significant energy and time, but there were also sections that weren’t so steep and simply had to be negotiated with care, with each of us periodically letting out a yell as we dropped into a hole.  Once we made it back to our campsite, we broke down our tent, repacked our backpacks and headed down the trail once again.  The stream crossings were made more difficult by the higher volume of water gushing down from the extremely warm and snowy slopes above.

Back at the trailhead

We were back at our car by 7pm and exhausted.  It had been another tough climb and for Jeanne and I, disappointing that our camp halfway and early start didn’t make the summit any more possible.  We have no choice but to tackle it again.

Cottonwood Lakes and New Army Pass on July 4, 2011

Jul. 04 Dog fun, Eastern Sierras, Hiking adventures, Sierra Nevadas 5 comments

There are two pleasures in life that can’t be beaten…1) finding money in your pocket, and, 2) realizing you have a three-day weekend at the last minute.  Just before the July 4th weekend, we experienced the second and made a quick decision to spend the weekend in Cottonwood Lakes and climbing the New Army Pass.  Both are near Lone Pine (just south of Mt Whitney, which we attempted in June 2011) in the John Muir Wilderness of the Eastern Sierras of California.  As an added bonus, we could take our two dogs, Gwenn and Mitch, who love the outdoors and are impossible to tire out, or so we thought.

Getting ready

Using our handy checklist, we made our run for last-minute supplies at REI and had the fortune to run into Tony Neary, one of the most experienced employees at the store and a veteran of Cottonwood Lakes.   He gave us great advice, as always, and we were packed and ready to go by 9pm that evening.  We weren’t sure of the snow conditions but knew the runoff from the heavy snows this winter would mean swollen streams and high water levels in general.   We needed to be well-prepared.

Getting started

We drove to Lone Pine where we picked up our permits from the Interagency Visitors Center just south of town.  Cottonwood Lakes are outside of the Whitney Zone and therefore are free, which is always good.  There are only 24 permits held for walk-ins, but we had good advice to be there at 11:00am, when passes are distributed on a first-come, first-served basis.  We made our obligatory stop at Subway to pick up a sandwich, stopped at one of the best hiking/climbing specialty shops we know, Elevation, for some last-minute gear (we decided to buy super-light crampons) and were at the Cottonwood Lakes trail head by 2:00 pm.  We were sorted and on the trail by 2:40pm, and enjoying a mostly flat 4-mile hike up to the basin that contains the six lakes and is the jumping off point for New Army Pass, Old Army Pass and Mt Langley (4,277 m., 14,032 ft.).  We couldn’t climb beyond the pass, however, as that would involve entering the Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Park where dogs are not permitted on trails.

John Muir Lake

Once in the basin, we chose John Muir Lake for solitude, as several people along the way told us that there were plenty of people at the other lakes.  Finding this lake, however, was a bit of a challenge as the trail branched but then was lost among pine trees and boulders.  Looking above at the mountains, we sorted out where the lake had to be and sure enough, we found it within thirty minutes.  It was a gorgeous place to camp with widely-spaced pines among boulders the size of small homes.  There were snow patches covering about half the ground and it was cool and comfortable compared to Lone Pine, which was 38 degrees (100 degrees Fahrenheit) earlier that day.

Climbing New Army Pass

We were up early the next morning and on the trail by 6:40am.  Getting there meant making our way past Lakes 1 and 2, then past Long Lake and up into the very snowy final basin below the pass itself.  We passed occupied campsites just before leaving Long Lake and noted that this would be a great base camp for the Pass and for a climb of Mt. Langley.  Once above Long Lake, the snow became much deeper and softer, even at that early hour.  Also, we could hear water rushing below our feet as we crossed snowfields, leaving us anxious about dropping through the surface crust.  We crossed these areas quickly and were able to reach the steep slopes of the Pass without problems.  The dogs showed no signs of altitude or exhaustion even as we reached the highest point of 3749 m. (12,400 ft.).  Coming down was, as always, much faster than going up as we were able to glissade quickly down.  Gwenn pulled Chris down the slopes very quickly, while Jeanne took the more cautious Mitch into her lap for the slide.

Once down the steep side of the final bowl, we crossed the basin quickly to the hill above Long Lake, which by now was very soft and with even louder sounds of water rushing below the surface.  We should have been exhausted by that point but were feeling great, so we make the decision to continue our hike up to Lakes 3, 4 and 5, which were in a basin to the north, requiring a seven-mile hike to get there and back to John Muir Lake.

The last day

Up early again the last morning, we enjoyed sunrise on Mt Langley, high above us, and the reflection of the mountain on a perfectly still lake.  Temperatures had dropped below freezing overnight, making the trail solid and less muddy than the previous two days.  We had a very fast descent to the trail head, where the dogs immediately passed out in the back of the car and we sorted our gear, knowing it would be much warmer and tougher to do this once we were home in Pasadena.

Cottonwood Lakes and New Army Pass are a great weekend getaway from Southern California, regardless of the summer heat elsewhere.  The approach trails are well-maintained and the campsites are plentiful.  We hope you have a chance to experience this idyllic part of the Eastern Sierras.

See all of our photos at our website, Maximum Adventure.  For the map of our hike, see the image below:

Cottonwood Lakes and Old Army Pass on July 4th Weekend 2011

Hiking the Cannell Trail near Kernville, CA for Christmas 2010

Jan. 14 Dog fun, Eastern Sierras, Hiking adventures, Sierra Nevadas no comments

We made a last minute decision to rent a cabin near Lake Isabella, CA for Christmas 2010. This area is very popular in the summer for whitewater rafting on the Kern River and for boating on Lake Isabella. The mountains aren’t quite as high as the Sierra Nevadas to the North but are close enough to Los Angeles that they make for a great weekend getaway. The benefits of going in winter are the very light traffic and number of people.

Burn area

We chose the Cannell Trail to have get some decent elevation in, as the trail climbs quickly from the trailhead just two miles north of Kernville on State Mountain 99. There are horse corrals just before the small parking area It begins in grassy meadows but after a mile enters an area that burned sometime in the recent past. This is not a shady trail for the first several miles and if you decide to go in summer, I would avoid the hot part of the day and bring plenty of water, as it looked as though the streams we saw were very seasonal.

Great views

While it is very popular with mountain bikers (taking it from north to south is known as the “Cannell Plunge”) we saw very few hikers on Christmas Day. This isn’t a particularly challenging climb, though the Park Service refers to it as strenuous. It is a very steady climb for the several miles that we followed. There are great view, however, of both the Kern River Valley and also of the areas to the east as you climb higher.

It was great to hike in snow as we reached the highest point of our hike near Cannell Meadows. The dogs haven’t spent a great deal of time on snow, so there were a few hours of sniffing and sliding around before the dogs calmed down. It was a gray day that took away some of the normal California style of the hike, but it was otherwise a great way to get exercise on another day that most people spend indoors.

The map

Yosemite Point on Christmas Day 2009

Dec. 25 Hiking adventures, National Parks, Sierra Nevadas, Yosemite, Yosemite 1 comment

Following a tradition of doing non-traditional things during holidays, we decided to hike Yosemite Point for Christmas 2009. Our decision was influenced by the storm that swept through just before Christmas, and a forecast that called for sunny weather on Christmas Day. The conditions sounded perfect.

Note: the trail we chose after pondering was the one in the background

We reserved the well-recommended Yosemite View Lodge  just outside the park entrance and made it to our accommodations by the early afternoon of Christmas Eve. We were able to reconnoiter the park before sunset and made the decision after talking with rangers and locals that Yosemite Point would be a great hike for Christmas Day. We returned to our hotel and were eating the buffet by late evening.

Yosemite Point

After getting trail conditions the next morning we decided to buy Yak Trax, a product that straps to shoes and provides great traction on snow and ice. We were very glad we did. The trail was clear for the first couple of kilometers, but by the time we reached the higher set of switchbacks near Yosemite Falls, the trail had become iced over and treacherous without the extra equipment. We started with cold weather clothing in the early part of the morning, but were taking off layers as soon as the sun struck the south-facing wall where the trail lies. Switchbacks are best done in the morning, before the mind is completely alert, and this was no exception.

Reaching the Falls

Once up the innumerable switchbacks, the trail leveled out and crossed the stream that makes the 206 m. (675 ft.) drop over the Yosemite Falls. As we passed closer to the Falls, we could hear slabs of ice breaking off and crashing to the valley below. By this point, we were in a Winter wonderland of snow and pine tress that make all of the effort worthwhile. The sky was clear blue and the temperature was around 10 degrees (52 degrees F).

To the Point

The day was so wonderful that we decided to push on to Yosemite Point. We’d reached our objective but we felt energetic and our legs were strong, so continuing upward to the rock that overhangs Yosemite Valley seemed a like a great idea. The snow was fairly deep at that point and we were beyond the point where we could follow the footsteps of others. With the trail obscured by snow, we looked at our map and made our best guess for where to go. Even though we weren’t increasing in altitude very quickly, the snow was getting noticeably deeper to the point that we were post-holing repeatedly as our feet found the air pockets around rocks and bushes. It was slow going, but the payoff was amazing.

Lost Arrow

We broke free of the trees as the ground sloped downward toward the cliff overlooking the valley. The view was unbelievable as we enjoyed the combination of perfect weather, surviving the deep snow, and being the only ones that high on Yosemite Point that day. We were alone in a perfect world of sun, snow, rock and trees. Hawks were our only company as we sat at the edge of a 916 m. (2390 ft.) sheer drop.

Heading down

Leaving was hard, but the day was getting on and we needed to make the bottom before the temperatures dropped significantly or we lost the light. Yosemite Valley, between high mountains on the north and south sides, gets dark very quickly, especially so close to the shortest day of the year. We were careful about our steps in the descent as our momentum and the icy conditions were a bad combination.

Fog in the valley

Once at the valley floor, a ground fog had settled in, giving the rocks, snow and vegetation a dream-like quality. There were deer grazing in the meadows, a noticeable lack of tourists and vehicles, and Yosemite has never been a more interesting place than that moment. We spent time enjoying the scenery before heading back to our lodging and Christmas dinner (the buffet once again…). There’s no better way to spend a holiday than having such a singular experience. If you have the opportunity to see Yosemite in Winter, go. If you have the chance to hike a trail like Yosemite Falls as well, all the better.

Snowshoes and Sequoias

How do you beat our adventure of Christmas Day? You really can’t, but our best attempt was to rent snowshoes at Badger Pass (a ski area within the park) and to snowshoe into the giant sequoias at Mariposa Grove. It wasn’t quite as amazing, but it was well worth the time. The snow was perfect for the shoes and we were able to master the movements to cover ground quickly and were at the giant trees in a short time. It was a perfect combination… learning something new and seeing such majestic trees at the same time. On the return, we saw wolves crossing the road and stopped at the famous Wawona Hotel for a great meal. A perfect three days in Yosemite National Park.