Archive for: October 2011

Tokyo by surprise

Oct. 29 Japan, Other adventures no comments

We flew through Tokyo on our way back from our latest trek to Mera Peak, Nepal. At the very last minute we realized that we had no specific plans for the next day in Los Angeles, our hometown, so there was no reason why not to spend our first day together in Tokyo.

Tokyo

Step one was to get a room at the Westin Tokyo…yes, a familiar brand for us but always a great base of operations in a strange city. We took the Executive Limosine, a bus service from Narita Airport to Ebisu, the location of the Westin on the west side of the city. Looking back, this was a two-hour bus ride that wasn’t pleasant after a long flight and we’ll be using the trains to make our way back to Tokyo Narita.

To Shibuya

Once at the Westin, we dropped our bags, grabbed a delicious snack at the Executive Lounge, and headed for the concierge. We were told to walk to Shibuya, just to the north a kilometer or so, and to check out the big screen displays and glitzy lights of the “Times Square Tokyo”. The concierge actually referred to it in broken English as “Lost in Translation”. It lived up to our expectations, even if the buildings were much smaller than New York.

As an additional point of interest, it was Halloween Weekend in Tokyo, and while not a Japanese tradition, a holiday they seemed to have embraced in costume if not in real meaning. True to our expectations, the dominant costumes were that of dominatrix-policewoman, short-skirted bloody nurse, Playboy Bunny, and other pseudo-sexual themes. We’re not sure Tokyo’s youth needed an additional excuse to dress in super-short skirts, men to dress as ladies, or for a few to get stumbling drunk.

To Harajuku

Just north of Shibuya, we walked through first an outdoor food exposition, bought ‘street meat’ that appeared to be a hotdog on a stick, and then found warmer clothing at a Gap alongside Yoyogi Park. This section of Tokyo was much quieter than the frantic Shibuya. It was actually peaceful.

To Shinjuku

Shinjuku was a return to the big shopping centers and busy life that we saw in Ebisu and Shibuya. We spent very little time before heading back toward Shibuya, which was the most lively place along our walk, Shibuya.

Evening’s end

We walked through countless neighborhoods and past many Italian restaurants (the most prevalent non-Japanese type) and more than a few convenience stores before arriving at the Westin. What better way to end an unexpected day in Tokyo than glasses of cold sake at the creatively named “The Bar” back at the Westin? It was notable that the Japanese are one of the few First World countries where smoking is still allowed indoors, and we opted for a table outside the bar, which stressed our server as she knew the rules but struggled with the pushiness of Westerners making a demand.

Sunday morning

I wish we could say we woke early and enjoyed a Shinto Shrine and a cool, sunny, zen morning. That was the plan the day before, to be sure. The truth, however, is that we were in our first truly comfortable beds in a month, free of smoke, snow and cold. We slept like refugees. It was divine. Breakfast was in the Executive Club on the 17th floor with a zen view of Sunday morning Tokyo…

After a first attempt at walking to Shinagawa Rail Station and getting turned around by too many Japanese who evidently didn’t know their way on a map, we took a taxi. Orderly, clean and clearly marked, we were on our way back to Narita with a minimum of effort. A fun and interesting 24 hours in Tokyo.

Review of Black Diamond Storm Headlamp

Oct. 24 Advice, Gear sites no comments

Originally submitted at REI

The waterproof Black Diamond Storm headlamp is built to withstand the worst weather, because the last thing you need when caught in a storm is for your headlamp to die.

Tested in the Himalaya

By MaximumAdventure dot net from Pasadena, CA on 12/24/2011
5out of 5

Pros: Lightweight, Waterproof, Adjustable Beam, Durable, Long battery life, Bright

Best Uses: Backpacking, Hiking, Trekking, Cold Weather

Describe Yourself: Avid Adventurer

Was this a gift?: No

We purchased two headlamps for use on a Mera Peak Expedition in October 2011. We knew we wanted light but at the same time, headlamps that would work very well in very cold temperatures.

While we didn’t test them in extreme cold, they worked day after day for three weeks in below-freezing temperatures. We’ve been back a couple of months now and even though we keep using them (even through a recent four-day power outage), we haven’t replaced the batteries yet.

We love the adjustable power setting so that we can see clearly up the trail and also avoid the glare when reading in the tent.

(legalese)

Peru, on your own terms

Oct. 13 Machu Picchu, Peru, Trekking adventures no comments

Craig Welzbacher standing in while Chris and Jeanne are in Nepal climbing Mera Peak.

Sacred Valley just out of Cusco

My wife and I decided to go to Peru this summer to see Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley. It’s been a bucket list item for me for the last 20 years, although at 40, I hopefully still have a long way to go before kicking it. And unlike Western Europe, where you can land and just rent a car, ride rail and travel to easily accessed destinations with all the modern amenities, developing countries pose slightly more difficult planning logistics. Peru is no exception.

This is where one often encounters the “guided tour” when researching online. There are numerous companies that take all that difficult planning out of the equation and make it easy. Just get to the Lima airport and the rest will be taken care of: travel, accommodations, most food and a guide for one lump sum. These are tempting. And there are options from a few days long to multiple weeks and 4 star plush to responsible “carbon offset” tours.

Llama at Machu Picchu

But, the more you look at the details you realize that these are mostly cookie cutter tours that are meant to appeal to a general tourist audience. Not a DIY trekker or adventurer. They sacrifice leisure and spontaneity for rapid time lines and only the most obvious landmarks and locations. Want to hang a bit longer and see those other ruins, sorry, you’ll miss the tour bus to the next town. Also they are owned and operated by larger companies taking tourist profits from local community businesses. Not our style. So, we decided to plan the whole trip ourselves and make sure we had ample time in all locations. It took a bit more time on our part when researching but it was a bet which would pay off numerous times as I’ll explain later.

Researching

Plaza de Armas, Cusco

First off, where to begin your research? Online travel sites like Fodors www.fodors.com and Lonely Planet www.lonelyplanet.com are both excellent starts. And we found their user forums to be valuable sources of information as you can ask your own questions as well as search other’s similar to yours. Users are posting on a daily basis and can tell you about weather, hotels, destinations and flight prices, etc. For example, we learned that there were political protests going on near Puno with road closures when we traveled in June, so we planned not to go to Lake Titicaca to avoid potential delays.

Horse trekking to the Moray crop circles

But don’t discount using the old Google search button either. Our number one online resource was an independent travel site about Peru we found simply by searching for the Sacred Valley. www.andeantravelweb.com  It’s a non profit site run buy Peru enthusiasts with honest reviews on hotels, restaurants, places to go, local tour companies, ecotourism, off the beaten path backpacking treks all the way to hot air balloon tours. This proved to be our most used resource. We relied on the site as a basis for where to stay and where to eat in each town we visited as well as what hikes and ruins to see.

Distance challenges

Inca Fortress, Ollantaytambo

Most of the aforementioned guided tours sell you on the wide array of destinations you will go to starting with a trip to the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu and either Lake Titicaca, the Amazon, or the Galapagos. All hundreds of miles apart. The problem here is while it takes an hour flight to go from say LA to San Francisco, it can take 12 -24 hours to get that same distance in a developing country. Do you want to be on a bus for a day or held up in a small airport with delays rather then seeing the sites? We decided to stay only in the Sacred Valley river valley area so we could spend a good amount of time exploring the ruins, culture and get some daily hikes in thus maximizing our vacation time. This area is absolutely gorgeous and was a key area for Inca civilization for hundreds of years ending with the mecca of all destinations, Machu Picchu. It really is the main reason to visit Peru.

Temple of the Sun, Inca ruins in Ollantaytambo.

The major towns in the Scared Valley are Cusco, Pisac and Ollantaytambo. Cusco is your arrival city from Lima and an amazing 400+ year old Spanish town built on the foundations of Inca ruins, and Ollantaytambo will be your launching point to get to Machu Piccu by rail or the 4 day hike on the Inca trail. Most tours will spend about two to three days in this whole area, including Machu Piccu. We spent nine. And we still could have stayed longer.

Remember when I mentioned planning our own trip would pay off in spite of the added research time? Let me explain.

Pisac

Night sky over Pisac

Two days in Pisac let us extensively hike the ruins above the town which are gorgeous and huge. It let us stay up late and walk back in the dark to our hotel outside of town where I took some long exposure pictures of the starry sky. We spent hours in the famous Pisac Sunday market and lounged on a veranda for lunch while we watched the tour buses come and go within two hours.

Ollantaytambo

Pisac Sunday market

Three days in Ollantaytambo allowed us to hike up the Inca Fortress ruins in early morning to see the Temple of the Sun virtually alone. The tours arrived at 3pm in the heat of the day. It allowed us to eat at all the local hidden gem restaurants in town. We took an 8 hour horse trek spontaneously on our second day to see the Moray crop rings and the Inca salt pans. No one but us and our guide for hours on Peruvian Paso horses in the foothills. On our third day we just happened to be in town when the summer solstice celebration occurs with a huge Inca reenactment performing the forbidden love story of Ollanta Rami on the ruins with hundreds of villagers dressed in Inca attire. Tour buses came in at 5pm that day and missed it.

Machu Picchu and Aguas Calientes (portal towns to the ruins)

Inca Salt Pans

An over night in AC, allowed us to rise at 4 am and make the first buses to the ruins to hike Huanu Picchu and see the sun rise on the ruins virtually empty. We spent 9-10 hours in the ruins including a private guided tour (highly recommended) and a wonderful hike up to the Sun Gate where Incas would first arrive to view MP after the 4 day trek from the Sacred Valley. The tours were in and out from 11pm to 3 pm in order to catch the train back in time.

Ollanta Rami reenactment, Ollantaytambo

Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate.

Cusco

With three whole days in Cusco, we saw the Saints being carried back to their respective churches at the end of the Corpus Christi celebration including nightly fireworks in front of all the churches, we saw the rally cars launch at the beginning of the Cusco to Lima rally. We shopped, we visited all the churches and the museums, we ate amazing local foods (the quinoa potato soups and loma saltado are to die for), we hung out at an awesome expatriate English pub and watched soccer with the Brits. None of that could have taken place on a fixed tour. We would have had a night, half a day and then been shuttled off to the airport.

Launch of the Cusco to Lima Road Rally, Cusco

Saints returning home during Corpus Christi, Cusco

Have I made my point? I hope so. I also don’t want to bash all the guided tours, there are companies that host some amazing back country and trekking packages and if you are short on time or overwhelmed on where to begin researching then the more common tours will give you a good introduction to Peru. If you’re reading the Maximum Adventure blog though,  you are probably already not of the guided tour ilk. My advice, forge your own path and you will open yourself up to an amazing trip full of wonderful random experiences…at your own pace…on your own terms.

Machu Picchu from the Watchman’s Hut.

World-class climber Melissa Arnot, the interview

Oct. 04 Inspiration 2 comments

Our life revolves around getting outdoors and hiking, trekking, and climbing. All too often, I’m the only woman in sight and often draw comments from the men in our group or people we meet, amplifying the fact that so few…too few…women are out in the mountains. I’ll admit that it isn’t the same in every part of the planet, as we notice in Nepal when we mix with people from France or other parts of Europe. But most of the world over, it is the a fact that women make up a small part of the adventurers.

I’m drawn to women who get out there, and few are as noticeable as Melissa Arnot, world-class climber and mountain guide with First Ascent. As I stress to prepare our climb of Mera Peak, Nepal (6476 m) over the next three weeks, I find support from other women that help me to know I can do this. I had the chance to ask Melissa a few questions recently, and found her responses to be very inspirational.

The interview

JRT: How did you get started as a climber?

MA: I grew up in the mountains of Montana and Colorado and my parents were incredibly supportive of an outdoor lifestyle. So of course I rebelled and went to college in Iowa! After I graduated I came back to Montana to visit, and a friend of mine had started climbing. He slowly started teaching me and it began to shape everything that I did, from free time to the jobs I was taking. I became involved in medicine so that I could be more self-sufficient in remote areas and I literally spent all my free time either rock, ice or alpine climbing.

JRT: What were your early barriers that you had to break through?

MA: For any climber just starting out, a huge barrier is finding people who you trust who are also willing to teach you.  I was lucky and had a great group of friends who were exceptionally patient.  But climbing is hard and it takes a level of mental commitment.  I had to make choices to train harder and put myself out there in situations that I knew I might not succeed with.  That is incredibly challenging if you are used to staying inside of your comfort zone.

JRT: There aren’t many women who climb. Do you ever feel cultural pressure to explain why you’re one of the few?

MA: At any given mountain I travel to, women make up about 10% of the climbing community.  That is pretty small.  Often people ask me if I am going to stop climbing to have a family or when I am going to quit.  It is hard for people to understand that climbing is my passion and I am a much better person when I am following my passions.  I also find it interesting that people often expect the women on the team to be weaker, less knowledgable or need more help.  That is just not true.  It is one of the many reasons I love climbing big mountains- they don’t care what your gender is.  It is equal work for everyone.  Last spring I attempted to climb Makalu with my climbing partner and fellow guide David Morton.  We went unsupported (meaning using no Sherpa or BC support).  It was a significant amount of work for both of us, but an excellent example of how it doesn’t matter your gender, each person has to put in the work for success.

JRT: Would you like to inspire other women to become more involved in climbing?

MA: I find climbing to be incredibly grounding as well as confidence building.  Every time I see women out climbing, I try to make strides towards creating a supportive environment for them.  Being the minority is difficult at times but it can also lead to opportunities the majority would never have.  If I put myself out there as a women in a very male dominated industry hopefully another women will know that she is not alone as she gets out there.

JRT: Have you had signs of success in getting more women involved?

MA: In the last 8 years of working as a professional guide I have seen the number of women participants rise.  Interestingly the desire for ‘all women’ trips has decreased.  That is success to me.  Women wanting to get out there and play and not worry about being the only girl.  I am often told by male clients and guides that having a female on the team offers a nice balance and they would prefer it.

JRT: What are your ultimate goals?

MA: You know, I never set out with a goal of climbing Everest or doing it multiple times.  I have just tried to stay open to the opportunities that appear for me.  With that approach, I would say I just have a goal of climbing honestly and honorably and respecting the mountains and the people in the places I travel.  I would also love to help inspire people to try things and chase their dreams.  I am just an average girl who had a tremendous desire to learn and commitment to work hard.  Anything is possible that way.

JRT: What do you see as the biggest challenges standing in the way of your goals?

MA: It is difficult to keep your focus genuine as you gain more success and notoriety.  I find myself asking the question of ‘why am I doing this?’.  If I am doing it because I want to then that is climbing honestly.  If I am doing it for someone else or what I think I will gain, then I think I begin to lose the solid foundation of being in the mountains.  The greatest successes are the ones I feel and no one ever knows about.  This is a dangerous sport with real risk and so I have to be sure I am doing it for the right reasons.