Archive for: September 2011

Climber, adventurer, arrogant punk

Sep. 30 Inspiration 1 comment

These are the words that self-describe Tony Yeary, our favorite resource at the Arcadia, California REI. His knowledge and stories were so extreme that the first few times we met him, we struggled to think he wasn’t making it up. As we knew more and realized it was all true, we knew we needed to find out more about his crazy, adventurous life.

We sat down in our favorite sushi restaurant a short time ago and this is what we found out. The arrogant punk is now gray-haired and mellow, but he told us that back in the day it was about being excellent and being able to brag about it.  As he tells it, there was the Sierra Club school of thought to climb through the grades, be safe and don’t take risks. Then there was the group he fell into which was, “Climb everything you can until you fall off…it makes you learn fast.”

When asked what made him a mountaineer, Tony explains that he started by reading a book about Sir Edmund Hillary’s conquest of Mt Everest in 1953. He thought it looked like a “cool” thing. Shortly after, Mt Baldy in the San Gabriel Mountains became his Everest and he climbed it many times.

Tony’s first higher altitude climb was Mt Whitney by the main trail in 1973, but his first truly high venture was in 1983 when he climbed Mexican volcanoes over 5600 m (18,500 ft). Soon after he was in Costa Rica, Guatamala and Nicaraugua passing through checkpoints manned by government soldiers in World War II surplus uniforms and American weapons, and then 50-60 km down the road, another checkpoint manned by guerillas armed with AK-47′s and wearing Levis. He learned Spanish on the streets of places like Mexico City and Lima…much more useful than the German he had learned in high school.

Inspirations

When asked who were his inspirations, Tony cites John Bachar, one of the best solo climbers in the world in the 70′s and 80′s. He also lists Hermann Buehl, an Austrian who pushed the boundaries of alpinism by applying its techniques to high Himalaya peaks. The last inspiration Tony brings up is Tobin Sorenson, a climber who died in 1980, but not before earning consideration as the finest all-around climber in the US.

Funding passion

Financing his passion involved making money where he could, which included working for Patagonia’s Yvonn Chounard in Ventura, California in 1975 when the business was still the Great Pacific Iron Works and the products were equipment and not clothing.

In true climbing style, Tony spent 32 years and 1o months (his words) working for Ralphs Grocery in Southern California, where he could accrue a great deal of vacation time and also switch to part time when his vacation limitations held him back from his passions.

Best climb

Tony’s best climb was in 1973 on the French Route of Huascaran Norte in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. He explains that it isn’t about success or failure in reaching the peak, but about the struggle. This climb was a failure measured against attaining the summit, but a great adventure of spending three days and two nights on a ledge at 21,000 ft waiting for a storm to blow through. While his favorite place was the Sierra Nevadas growing up, it is now the Cordillera Blanca. As he explains it, there isn’t a peak in the range more than two days from Huaraz, Peru, a place some call the “Chamonix of the Andes.” His favorite place to stay?  Casa de Zarela, the climbers HQ when in the area.

Worst climb

Tony’s worse climb was in June 1974, at the Palisades, the most alpine-like peaks of the Sierras with jagged needles and a significant glacier. Tony and his climbing partner, Steve Evans, were camped on the glacier when they heard a noise and saw something come down Clyde’s Couloir very rapidly. It turned out to be a 16-year-old named Dale Snyder from Lancaster, California.  He fell400 meters down the gully onto the ice and was killed instantly. Tony and Steve spet the next three days helping to carry the body out, including spending a night in the local sheriff’s station. Before that, Tony says that he never contemplated death even while he saw broken arm and other injuries, but never saw death. By the time they brought the dead teen down, the teen’s parents had already read about his death in the Lancaster paper. Tony sums it up with, “I’ve had friends die, but nothing like that.”

Future plans

What’s up next for Tony? The peak he’s dreamed about for at least 25 years, Alpamayo in the Cordillera Blanca of Northern Peru. At 5497 m (18,034 ft), it is not just a tall mountain, but its heavily glaciated peak is one of the most photographed in the world. Tony plans to tackle his dream mountain by the French Direct Route, one of many ways to the top. We’d love to join him if we can be ready.

His dream stems from a trip in 2002 when he was in Peru with six other climbers. The group was divided on whether to climb Alpamayo or Huascaran and it came down to the flip of a US quarter. A friend won the toss and left for Huascaran, while Tony’s group went to AlpaMayo. On the way back, he stopped to talk to American trekkers who let them know that three Americans were killed in an avalanche on Huascaran. It was his friends and they died in an avalanche based on the outcome of a coin toss. Such is life when it is lived to the fullest.

Adventurous life

Tony isn’t a wealthy man by American financial standards but he has spent a lifetime of ‘earning’ memories from fantastic experiences. He has more interesting stories from his life than can be adequately covered in this post. He has lived a life of maximum adventure that is still underway and adding new chapters. We draw inspiration for our adventures from people like Tony. If you want to meet him, he’s often found at REI Arcadia helping people with some of the best advice they can get on not just equipment, but on where to go and what to do. Thank you to Tony for all you’ve helped us with and for the awesome stories.


A perfect Saturday in Amsterdam

Sep. 25 Netherlands, Other adventures 3 comments

This is a continuation of Friday night in Amsterdam, Netherlands.

After an interesting Friday night of mostly the Red Light District, we were tucked in early and also up very early to have a full Saturday of exploring Amsterdam. The weather forecast was perfect and our plan was to spend as much of the day outside as we could. After a great breakfast at our hotel, The Pulitzer, we checked with the very friendly conceirge and were given a good map and a plan of attack for the day.

To bike or not to bike

We debated getting bicycles to start the day but ultimately decided not to because we love walking and didn’t want to worry about where to lock them. In retrospect, this probably wasn’t a reasonable concern, as Amsterdam is rumored to have over four million bicycles for its less than one million inhabitants. The risk of getting a rental bike stolen is very low, but more importantly, the bike is the top of the Amsterdam food chain. What we mean by that is that a bicycle seems to have the right away over red lights, pedestrians, including small children and the elderly. Bicycles fly around the city with little regard for traffic rules or crowds of people, and you ignore them at your risk. Since they approach quiety most of the time, we referred to bikes as “silent death” and had several close calls throughout the day. It wasn’t the sheer number that made them dangerous…it was the speeds they attain as they fly through intersections and even up on the sidewalk. Bicycles rule Amersterdam.

The Noordermarkt

There’s something about a European street market that never gets old. There are always the freshest breads, cheeses, seafood, flowers and specialities of that particular place. The Noordermarkt was no different and there was plenty of free sampling to be had. Strolling through the market on a Saturday morning tasting the local products is one of the absolute best ways to get to know a city or country.

Moving furniture

Something we’d witnessed on The Amazing Race but never in person was the way the tall and narrow canal houses of Amsterdam present a particular problem for moving furniture. With steep and narrow staircases, large items must be hoisted from the street using hooks attached to the top of every house and brought in the large front windows of the upper levels. It was only after we saw the movers in action that we realized that every single tall, narrow house had the same mechanism. In Amsterdam, that means nearly every house in the city.

The Rijksmuseum

If you have any interest in the Golden Age of The Netherlands, the Rijksmuseum is mostly dedicated to the art of the early to mid Seventeenth Century. Even though we saw paintings by Rembrandt, Degas and others, our favorite of the day was The Kitchen Maid by Johannes Vermeer. The subleties of movement, still life, shadows and light all come together in this piece in way that makes it distinct and almost a blend of many great painting styles. Despite our cultural backgrounds, we easily settled on this painting as our favorite of the day.

Beers on the canal

The remainder of our afternoon was spent enjoying the sun on the patio at the Aran Pub at Max Euweplein, a short distance from the museums and in an excellent place for people watching along the canal. There were people from all over the world and we were pleased to meet a great couple from the UK that had recently moved to Amsterdam from Santiago, Chile. Our kind of people.

We made our way back to our hotel along many of the most beautiful streets we’ve every walked. It is an amazing city of canals, bikes, easygoing people and elegance. It was truly a perfect Saturday.

Our Ultimate Checklist

Sep. 25 Checklists 2 comments

We’ve found over time that the only way to make sure you have everything you need, or have at least considered everything you need, is to use a checklist. We accomplish all types of trips by have a single, inclusive checklist that we call our Ultimate Checklist.

Review of Asolo TPS 520 GV Hiking Boots – Men’s

Sep. 24 Advice, Gear sites no comments

Originally submitted at REI

The expertly designed soles on the Asolo TPS 520 GV hiking boots reduce shock impact while enhancing stability and support. Full-grain leather uppers with seam-sealed Gore-Tex� linings provide waterproof protection from the elements. Gusseted tongues and padded ankle collars keep trail debris out; …

Proven awesome in California and Nepal

By Chris et Jeanne from Pasadena, CA on 12/24/2011
5out of 5

Sizing: Feels true to size

Width: Feels true to width

Arch Type: High Arch

Pros: Great Traction, No Break-in, Warm, Ankle Support, Water Resistant, Sturdy/Durable, Comfortable, Good Arch Support

Cons: Toes not well protected

Best Uses: Wet Conditions, Heavy Loads, Harsh Terrain, Long-Distance Hiking

Describe Yourself: Avid Adventurer

Was this a gift?: No

We’ve used these boots in California for the past two years and also in Nepal hiking in the Himalayas. They are simply put, the best hiking boots we’ve both ever had (my wife owns the same model for women).

The only thing I would change about the boots is to give them a protective rubber toe cap. We use boot polish when we get home after hiking to make sure the leather doesn’t dry out and crack since there is no toe cap.

Our boots after the second trek in Nepal

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Tags: Picture of Product

(legalese)

Friday night in Amsterdam, Netherlands

Sep. 24 Netherlands, Other adventures 1 comment

Our first time together in Amsterdam and of course we had to check out the Red Light District, locally called De Wallen. From Dutch coworkers to the concierge at our 5-star hotel, we were told to make that one of our first stops. It wasn’t hard to find as we could follow the significant number of tourists making there way there in the early evening. Once we arrived, it was somewhat surprising to see that it was just like other parts of the city, with canals, beautiful canal houses, restaurants and coffee shops.  There was a scent of marijuana in the air and a New Orleans-like odor of stale beer, old vomit and pee that make us feel like we seeing something a bit seedy and undignifited. There were drunk people and homeless just as you’d find any any other melting pot of tourists, opportunists and hard-partying people.

Famous red windows

The famous red windows were mostly grouped together on the narrow side streets and at 8pm, most of the windows were curtained, making it seem like we were still early in the evening to see the oldest profession hard at work. The girls that were working were an expressionless variety of older and younger, nationalities and states of dress. What was common, though, was the effect of enormous amounts of makeup and purple and black lighting that made them look like mannequins in the windows. They mostly looked bored, which was understandable as the vast majority of the people walking by were not prospective customers and were couples and groups of men who were taking in the novelty of Der Wallen. The windows were often an opening to a room with a bed, meaning that the traveling distance to choose, negotiate and complete the transaction was just a few meters.

Architecture

The first thing to notice in Amsterdam is the sheer number of grandiose buildings. Every block has a remarkable example of human’s need to create massive structures. These buildings are churches, train stations, hotels and every kind of government building and reflect a very prosperous past. They make Amsterdam feel both elegant and old. It feels like a the gateway to Europe that it has been for centuries. To make the point even better, churches are located on the same streets as the brothels, demonstrating a coming together of ways of satisifying human needs that is a bit jarring but almost makes sense. Debauchery and confession can be ten meters apart.

Looking forward

We were back early and looking forward to a day of cycling, canal cruising and art. While the sights and smells of last night were what brings people here, we’re pretty sure that we’ll enjoy Saturday more that Friday night. Up next…Saturday in Amsterdam.

For a continuation of this story, see A Perfect Saturday in Amsterdam, Netherlands.

How do you get ready for 6,476 m (21,247 ft)?

Sep. 17 Health, Nepal, Trekking adventures 1 comment

We leave for Nepal in a few short weeks to climb a peak in the Sagarmatha Region of Nepal. Mera Peak is 6,476 m (21,247 ft) and while it is called a trekking peak and not a climbing peak, it wasn’t summitted until 1953, the same year as Mt Everest. To go that high means being prepared in new ways when it comes to equipment, clothing and fitness. We’ve had nearly a year to get ready, and here’s what we’ve done.

Acclimatization

Nothing will keep us from the top more than acclimatization and our fitness level. The acclimatization has to occur once we’re in Nepal and en route, as we live only 300 m (1000 ft) above sea level. Our last six months included:

These adventures were still far below where we’ll be going, so the only way to truly be prepared is to work on the things that can be done…strength, endurance and mental toughness.

Physical fitness

People put a great deal of focus on physical fitness and they should. If you aren’t fit, you will suffer from the problems that unfit people encounter when they push beyond their readiness…knee and back issues, muscle tears, cramps, stiffness, and blisters. There’s no substitute for getting out on the trail and putting in the kilometers.

Mental fitness

If you aren’t ready mentally as well, you won’t be able to tough it out when you reach the hardest parts. You may quit or worse, convince others to quit. Being mentally tough is the hardest preparation of all because you can only get there by pushing yourself beyond what feels comfortable and easy. How do you get mentally tough? If the trail is easy, go fast. If the trail is hard, go as fast as you can until your body makes you stop. Mental toughness is the reason the best riders in the Tour de France aren’t the 20-year-olds. Some of the best marathoners are in their 30′s and 40′s because the mental challenge is greater than the physical, and this takes time to develop.

Technical gear

People spend a fortune on technical gear and undoubtedly more than is necessary. We have things we bring for climbing, like harnesses, ropes and ascenders, but also things we bring for convenience, like lightweight binoculars and a good camera. We’ve developed a Mera Peak Checklist just for these items as forgetting something could be at a minimum, disappointing, and at a maximum, unsafe.

Clothing

Having the right clothing that allows a trekker to be in many climates within the span of a few weeks isn’t a simple matter. We are big believers in layering clothing so that every item has multiple uses and the ultimate effect is to have less weight to carry and much more flexibility. Anything that can be rolled, stuffed or folded into a small space needs very careful consideration.

  • First layer – Merino wool long underwear. Thin and useful in a broad range of temperatures. Doesn’t hold smells very well since it is a natural material. Wicks moisture away from your skin so you don’t feel wet when you sweat.
  • Optional long underwear – We have varying layers for wearing over the first layer as the temperature drops. Patagonia has a great system for labeling their long underwear by 1, 2, 3, and 4, with 4 being the thickest/warmest.
  • Warmth layer – When cold weather calls for more clothing, the layer above long underwear can be down. Warm, but not waterproof in our case, so we have another layer after that.
  • Waterproof layer – We both have the Patagonia M10 shells that are extremely breathable but also waterproof. This layer can be worn directly on the skin when you have warm rains down low, or over the down and long underwear when you are in frigid temperatures up high.

These four layers provide incredible flexibility for changing conditions, even within a day. It is a sort of ‘clothing system’ that makes hiking and trekking much comfortable. Heavy jackets and thick clothing in general aren’t useful as they don’t have a broad range of use, aren’t part of a ‘system’ like we describe, and take forever to dry if they get wet.

Footwear

This topic is well-covered in a recent post Why footwear matters so darn much.

Travel and its challenges

All the gear and fitness won’t make a difference if you aren’t ready to travel to your destination. We have gear bags that we check for air travel, and we have our essentials like passports, wallets and medication in our carry-on bags and never in checked luggage. We travel often and so it isn’t a difficult exercise for us. A part of the challenge is to have a great attitude and to be flexible when plans change unexpectedly. Every change is an opportunity to find an unexpected adventure, so when it happens, roll with it.

Why footwear matters so darn much

Sep. 16 Advice, Gear sites 3 comments

Few things are more important than choosing the right footwear for the adventure, whether it be the Himalaya or London. While it would be great to save money and find multipurpose shoes, choosing appropriately will make things much more fun. Make a poor choice in footwear and see how quickly an adventure becomes painful, limited and a bad memory. Keep in mind that the products we show below are a good fit for our feet, but may not be the best brands for you. Seek the advice of a footwear specialist at a store that has serious hikers helping the customers, as the advice of a generalist will get you into trouble.

Hiking

When we hike distances less than 10 km (6 miles), we usually use trail running or approach shoes that are lightweight and have some amount of support. They are infinitely better than running shoes that are made for running in a straight line or tennis/skate shoes that are made for smooth, hard surfaces. We like the Vasque trail running shoes for durability.

Pros: light weight with some support

Cons: Not enough support to prevent ankle roles on downhills. Not good for daily pounding.

Trekking

The shoe challenges involved in trekking aren’t just the daily distances, but the accumulation of many kilometers day after day. The rigors of trekking don’t allow for healing time, so having supportive and protective footwear goes up several notches in importance. We love our Asolo TPS 520′s that are leather and at first glance may seem old-fashioned, but are comfortable in a wide of temperatures, extremely durable, and measure up very well against the most modern of man-made materials. We find it to be the best of both worlds.

Pros: Fantastic support for long distances and the rigors of downhill hiking

Cons: Heavier than approach shoes and warmer. Need to be worn with moisture-wicking socks in warmer weather.

Mountaineering

Going up high means having not just great protection from cold, but a way to keep the liner warm during the night. A two-layer boot, also known as a “double plastic boot” allows the inner boot to stay on your foot, even in a sleeping bag, and keeps the feet warm even first thing in the morning. Frozen boots are a sure way to frostbite. We recently used the La Sportiva Spantik on a climb of Mt Shuksan in Washington State, and it was very comfortable and easy to take on and off. We’re looking forward to using the boots in Nepal for Mera Peak in October 2012.

Pros: Warm, separate liner

Cons: Heavy and very specialized (not useful down at low elevations). Mountaineering boots need to be carried to the point where they are used, so weight is a big factor.

Relaxing – warm weather

Being able to take off your shoes and let your feet breath is key to enjoying the end of a great adventure. For this, there’s fewer more durable or comfortable sandals than the Olukai. The leather soles and straps make them tough and allow them to break in to your foot’s shape. If you don’t have a sandal at the end of the day, you’ll have serious envy of those who do.

Pros: Bullet-proof, comfortable, light weight

Cons: Not the best way to walk on rocks or deal with cold temperatures

Relaxing – cold weather

In the “getting more specialized” category, we love down booties for the end of a day when the temperature drops. Your feet can relax, stay warm, and you can feel like an astronaut all at the same time. Light weight and stuffable. We connect ours with heavy rubber bands and they stay together in our packs. Feathered Friends makes one of the more expensive but also more durable versions.

Pros: Warm and very comfortable. So light that they don’t need to be a weight issue.

Cons: Not generally rugged enough for walking on rough ground. Most are not waterproof in their soles.

Going to the dogs…the 1st Annual Mutt Strut in Los Angeles

Sep. 10 Dog fun 1 comment

We ran the 5K option of the 1st Annual Mutt Strut today at a park near downtown Los Angeles. Rarely do we have the opportunity to raise money for a good cause while also getting a great workout but this was both. The California Council of the Blind organized the event with our friend Melissa Hudson (the one who is blind yet climbed Mt Baldy) as the Chairperson. There were lots of guide dogs with their owners, but there were also plenty of sighted people there to show support and help fund raise.

We arrived earlier than we needed to, but that gave us a great chance to mingle with the crowd and to ask questions about guide dogs, which are truly amazing animals.

Anya

One of the first working dogs we saw was Anya, a dog we’ve met before. Anya is Melissa’s dog and is a beautiful and patient black Labrador. Anya is also nearly ten years old and will retire soon after many years of great service that allows Melissa to move about Los Angeles much like anyone else. The training these dogs receive is long and intense and only a little more than half of the candidate dogs make the cut to be guide dogs for the blind.

Dusty Rose

Though Labradors are a popular choice, there are several breeds trained to guide the blind. We talked to the owner of a beautiful Golden Retriever, Dusty Rose, a 2 year old that was raise in Palm Springs, to the east of Los Angeles. Dusty Rose was new to her career as a guide dog but still showed the incredible discipline that makes these dogs so perfect for the task. The amount of freedom these dogs give to the blind is amazing.

Hazel

Alongside the working dogs we also met the dogs that are in the middle of their training. Hazel was a thirteen-month-old Golden Labrador that was coming near the end of her training. While she wore a vest that indicated her ‘trainee’ status, she was as patient and under control as the dogs we saw with many more years of experience. If you want to know more about how this program works, go to the Guide Dogs for the Blind website for information.

We’ll be sure to attend next year’s event as we had a great time and met some exceptional people.